Saturday, February 27, 2010

February 25, 2010: Potato Gnocchi

I had read many descriptions of gnocchi from cookbooks and food magazines that were so alluring that I thought, "This is something I want to have some day." I finally experienced these delicate, plump, potato pillows at Angeli Cafe on Melrose in West Hollywood. They were light as a feather and simple in composition; bathed simply in butter and dusted with parmigiano, each mouthful was an event.
It took me years to attempt to make gnocchi from scratch at home. Although I routinely cranked out my own pasta dough, I felt daunted by these sublime Italian wonders. They seemed too impossibly perfect to recreate. I finally got over the fear and, after a rubbery outcome or two, I finally got the knack one evening with my daughter, Ingrid, as sous chef and cheerleader.
POTATO GNOCCHI WITH BUTTER AND PARMIGIANO

1 pound potatoes, scrubbed clean
Pinch of Sea Salt
1 egg yolk
3/4 cup flour
2 t olive oil
4 T butter
Freshly grated parmigiano reggiano
Minced fresh parsley or snipped chives

Place the potatoes in a saucepan with water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender. Drain; let potatoes stand until they are cool enough to handle. Peel and cut them into chunks. Pass the chunks through a potato ricer or food mill. Transfer to a lightly floured surface. Make a well in the middle where you will put the egg yolk. Slowly work the flour into the potatoes until the mixture forms a smooth, slightly sticky dough. Divide the dough into quarters. Roll each into a rope, about 15 inches long and 3/4 inch in diameter. Using a floured knife, cut each rope into 30 pieces. Indent each gnocchi on one side with the tines of a floured fork. Place in a single layer on a lightly floured cookie sheet. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a few pinches of salt and the olive oil. Drop the gnocchi into the boiling water. When they rise to surface, let them cook about another 10 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon or drain in a colander. Melt the butter in a large skillet. Add the cooked gnocchi and gently toss them in the butter. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Serve sprinkled with freshly grated parmigiano reggiano and parsley/chives.
*Fresh gnocchi can be frozen very successfully. Place them in a single layer on a floured cookie sheet then put them in the freezer. When frozen, place in a ziploc bag. Cooking instructions are identical as fresh gnocchi.
*Gnocchi is a suitable blank canvas for a diverse spectrum of sauces and flavors. Tonight, I served gnocchi with ragu (sauce bolognese). Mmmmmmm.
*This basic gnocchi dough can be enhanced with other flavors, such as spinach, herbs and sweet potato with sage.

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