March 21, 2010: Grape Leaves with Rice, Pine Nuts and Currants

I catered many cocktail parties in during the Karen's Kitchen days. I looked for hors d'oeuvre that I could prepare in advance but would still be fresh. Stuffed grape leaves, or dolmas, were perfect. They require time to assemble, but after they are steamed and packed away, they are easy to arrange on a tray for serving. This is a nice, light vegetarian version from the Time-Life International Cookbook.

GRAPE LEAVES WITH RICE, PINE NUTS AND CURRANTS

5 T olive oil
1 cup minced onions
1/3 cup uncooked white rice, long or medium grain
3/4 cup water
1/2 t sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 T pine nuts, lightly toasted in the oven
2 T dried currants
40 preserved grape leaves
2 T cold water
Lemon wedges

In a large, heavy skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onions and cook until translucent. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Pour in the water, add the salt and a few grindings of pepper. Bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the rice is tender and the liquid has been absorbed. Add the toasted pine nuts and currants to the rice. in a large pot, bring 2 quarts of water to the boil. Drop in the grape leaves and immediately turn off the heat. Let the leaves soak for 1 minutes. Drain in a colander and plunge them into a bowl of cold water. Gently separate the leaves and place them, dull sides up, on paper towels to drain. Place about 10 leaves on the bottom of a heavy 3-quart pot. Then, stuff the remaining leaves: spread the leaf dull side up. Place 1 tablespoon of the filling in the center of the leaf. Turn up the stem end of the leaf, then fold over, one at a time, fold over each of the sides to enclose the stuffing completely. Then roll into a compact cylinder (the leaf surfaces should cling together). Stack the dolmas, seam-side-down, side by side in your prepared pot. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the cold water. Place over high heat for 3 minutes, reduce to a low simmer and steam, tightly covered, for 50 minutes. Uncover and cool to room temperature. Serve with lemon wedges.

*The Time-Life International Illustrated Library of Cooking is a wonderful resource. The recipes are notable for their authenticity and the contributors to the series were known experts in the culinary field.

*Pack a few dolmas, a small container of homemade hummus, some pita bread, and a few olives, cucumber slices and cherry tomatoes for a tasty Mediterranean lunch. You'll be the envy of the lunchroom!

March 20, 2010: Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Okay, Spaghetti Carbonara doesn't fit the bill of healthy fare but I happen to think it is one of the most magnificent pasta dishes ever devised. It is an Italian classic.

(I am considering making it the night before my half-marathon next week to carbo-load. Buon appetito!)

SPAGHETTI ALLA CARBONARA

4 T soft butter
2 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
1 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano
1 t sea salt
1 pound spaghetti
1 T olive oil
8 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4 inch strips
1/2 cup heavy cream
Freshly ground pepper

In a large pot, bring 8 quarts of salted water to boil. Heat a large ovenproof casserole in a 200 degree F. oven. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cream the softened butter with a wooden spoon until it is light and fluffy. In another bowl, whisk the eggs and egg yolks until well-blended, then stir in 1/2 cup of the grated cheese. When the water reaches the boil, add the spaghetti and the tablespoon of oil. Stir to make sure the spaghetti doesn't stick together. Cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Meanwhile, saute the bacon pieces in a medium skillet until crisp. Pour off half of the bacon fat, then stir in the cream. Bring the cream to a simmer. When the spaghetti is cooked, drain it and transfer it to the heated casserole. Using two forks, toss in the creamed butter, then the hot bacon and cream mixture, and finally the egg and cheese mixture. Mix everything thoroughly. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately, passing the remaining 1/2 cup of grated cheese at the table.

March 19, 2010: Hummus

Hummus is the popular Middle Eastern spread made from mashed chickpeas (garbanzos). It is traditionally served as an appetizer with wedges of pita bread or as an accompaniment to many Middle Eastern dishes. There are a vast variety of commercial products at your grocery that are quite good, but I find making my own fresh from scratch beats them all. Hummus very easy to make if you have a food processor or blender. The following recipe does not contain tahini, a sesame paste, that you'll find in most traditional recipes. Honestly, I've never made it with tahini, but I'll let you know when I try it.

HUMMUS

2 cups cooked chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
1 12 sea salt
3 cloves garlic, put through a press
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 t0 1 t freshly ground toasted cumin
Freshly chopped mint, for garnish

If your chick-peas are canned, thoroughly rinse them under running cold water and drain. Place the chick-peas, salt, garlic, olive oil, and lemon juice in the container of your food processor or blender. Process at high speed for about 10 seconds. Stop the blender and scrape down the sides of the container with a rubber spatula. Process again until the hummus is a very smooth puree, just thick enough to hold its shape in a spoon. Spoon into a serving bowl and garnish chopped mint.

*Hummus has great nutritional value. It is high in vitamin C and iron and is a good source of dietary fiber. When eaten with grains or bread, it is a complete protein.

*Blue corn chips make especially good scoops for hummus.

March 18, 2010: Madeleines

Madeleines are a French classic. Neither a cookie nor a cake, they are made from a light spongecake (or genoise) batter and baked in special shell-shaped molds. They are perfect with a cup of tea or a latte or... instead of a cookie, serve a madeleine with a dish of ice cream or fruit. C'est delicieuse!

MADELEINES

2 T softened butter
2 eggs
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 t vanilla extract
1/2 cup all-purpose flour, sifted three times
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled to room temperature

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.

Thoroughly grease the madeleine molds with the softened butter. Place the eggs, sugar and vanilla in the bowl of your electric mixer. Beat until it is tripled in bulk, or a thick ribbon drops from the beater when it is lifted from the bowl. With a rubber spatula, fold in the flour, a tablespoon or two at a time. Then, gradually fold in the melted butter. Spoon the batter into each shell of the the madeleine pan until two-thirds full. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until the cakes are lightly browned. Remove the madeleines from the molds to cool on a wire rack.

*Add poppy seeds for a festive variation.

March 17, 2010: Mr. Jeff's Corned Beef and Cabbage

St. Patrick's Day started out in no ordinary manner. It was an extraordinarily gorgeous California spring day. Under a sunny, blue sky, the hillsides were all shades of green with patches of yellow mustard, orange poppies and purple lupin. You would think that would be enough magic for one day. But no! I visited the kindergarten room on my way to the school office: tiny leprechaun footprints and gold dust covered the floor! They had played mischievous pranks during the night to surprise the children when they came to school. With a wide grin on my face, I continued on my way. Then, I met my usual early morning visitors, Cheyanne and Sadie, who this morning were more excited than I had ever seen them! They had further reports of green mischief from they encountered at home: Clothes in wrong closets; painted mirrors; cereals in the wrong boxes! Soon, I began to develop an Irish brogue while the Chieftains played Irish airs on the CD player throughout the day. Then! Mr. Jeff, our principal and the best boss in the world, served the homemade corned beef and cabbage he made to the staff for lunch. It was so good, I'm asked him if I could share it here. Mmmm! What a wonderful St. Patrick's Day. It was a day filled with magic and promise, love and laughter, and fun just for the sake of... fun!

MR. JEFF'S CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE

6 carrots, cut into chunks
2 onions, chopped
2-3 corned beef brisket with seasoning packet
12 ounces beer
2 T yellow mustard
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 cup water
8 wedges cabbage
Potato chunks, optional

In a 4 - 6 quart crock pot, combine the carrots, onions and optional potatoes. Rinse the corned beef under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place into the crock pot and sprinkle with the seasoning mix. Pour beer over the brisket and spread mustard on the brisket. In a small bowl mix the brown sugar with water and pour over the meat. Cover the crock pot and cook on low setting for 10 hours.

Remove the corned beef from the crock pot and keep warm. Add the cabbage wedges to the vegetables and liquid in the crock pot. Cover and cook on high for another 30 to 40 minutes, or until the cabbage is crisp tender.

To serve: cut the corned beef across the grain into thin slices. Remove the vegetables from the crock pot with a slotted spoon and serve with the meat. Serve the cooking juices separately. Offer additional mustard on the side. Makes 8 servings.

*Thank you, Mr. Jeff!

March 16, 2010: Caesar Salad

Encountering an authentic Caesar Salad is like searching for a needle in a haystack. There has been an explosion of versions that claim to be Caesar, but it is virtually impossible to find one that comes close to the original salad concocted by Caesar Cardini in his Tijuana restaurant, circa 1925 (during the Prohibition era, Californians crossed the border for their fun!). The main difference I find between wanna-be and the original Caesar salad is in the pitch of the flavor. The original is subtle and well-balanced compared to the blast of garlic and blizzard of cheese that is typical of current renditions. Julia Child added the following, well-researched recipe to her book, "From Julia Child's Kitchen," including the dramatic table-side presentation. Now, you can have an authentic Caesar fresh from your own kitchen!

CAESAR SALAD

24 leaves of romaine lettuce, gently washed, dried and chilled
2 cloves garlic
Sea salt
3/4 cup olive oil
2 cups unseasoned toasted croutons
1 lemon
2 eggs
1/4 cup reggiano-parmigiano
Freshly ground pepper
Worcestershire sauce

Croutons

Puree the garlic through a garlic press into a small heavy bowl. Mash to a smooth paste with a pestle or spoon. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt and dribble in 3 tablespoons oil. Strain into a small frying pan and heat just to warm. Add the croutons, toss for about a minute over moderate heat, then turn into a serving bowl.

Other Preliminaries

Squeeze the lemon into a pitcher. Boil the eggs exactly 1 minute. Place the cheese into a nice bowl. Arrange these and all the ingredients on a tray. Chill your salad plates. Arrange the romaine in a large salad bowl.

Mixing the Salad

"Prepare to use large rather slow and dramatic gestures for everything you do, as though you were Caesar himself." Pour 4 tablespoons over the romaine and give the leaves 2 gentle rolling tosses. Sprinkle on 1/4 teaspoon slat, 8 grindings of pepper, 2 more tablespoons of oil, and give another gentle, but thorough, toss. Pour on the lemon juice, 6 drops of Worcestershire Sauce, and break the eggs over the salad. Toss Twice, sprinkle on the cheese. Toss once, then sprinkle on the croutons and give 2 final tosses.

Serving

Arrange the salad rapidly but "stylishly" leaf by leaf on each plate, stems facing outward, and a sprinkling of croutons at the side. Guests may eat the salad with their fingers, in the approved and original Caesar manner, or may use knives and forks -- which they will need anyway for the croutons.

*Note: there are no anchovies, as you find in many other Caesar recipes. Actually, it's the Worcestershire sauce which contains the touch of anchovy to add to the flavor bouquet of the salad.

March 15, 2010: Springtime Asparagus

Finally, asparagus is showing up at the farmers' market. It is one of the culinary harbingers of springtime and a sign that the winter season is fading into memory. I refuse, absolutely refuse, to eat asparagus anytime of the year but now. When I was little, I only knew the Jolly Green Giant's canned version, available spring, summer, fall, and winter. Mr. Giant's version was a dull green, limp stalk that, until I knew better, was kind of tasty. I categorized it as vegetable that appealed to adult tastes. So, when I discovered I enjoyed eating asparagus, I considered myself rather sophisticated and grown-up. Ha!

Fast forward to the mid-seventies in Chicago. I was a young, naive bride and Tom and I were visiting friends for dinner. They were so elated that fresh asparagus was in season that it practically dominated their menu. That was my first taste and I have been a fan ever since! I love it simply lightly boiled, or blanched, served au natural. Although, I have to admit that a fine Hollandaise Sauce is a marvelous complement, when I feel like indulging.

SPRINGTIME ASPARAGUS

1 bunch medium-diameter asparagus
Salted water

Fill a large, covered saute pan with a couple inches of salted water. Cover and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, with a vegetable peeler, gently peel away the tough skin at the bottom end of each asparagus stalk, about three inches from the bottom toward the tip. Make a fresh cut on the bottom end of each stalk. When the water is boiling, add the asparagus and gently boil until it turn a nice bright green, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove a stalk with a pair of tongs to test for tenderness. I like my asparagus just slightly limp. Cook longer, if desired. Drain and serve immediately, or use in a recipe.

*Thickness is a matter of preference. I know folks who simply love the skinny-minny stalks while others prefer the fatter-dimensioned variety. Obviously, cooking time must be adjusted according to the girth of the asparagus you are preparing.

March 14, 2010: Mormor's Meatballs

Mormor is the name my daughters gave my mother. In Norwegian it literally means "mother's mother." Like many grandmothers, Mormor's kitchen was legendary. Although her cooking was simple, you could taste every soupcon of love she put into every meal she prepared. Her meatballs (kottboller, pronounced shut-boller) were legendary in our family lore. My father (the girls called him Poppy, a decidedly non-Norwegian name) enjoyed them so much that he insisted she serve them every time we had an Italian spaghetti dinner. No spicy meatballs for my dad! Only the finest Norwegian-style meatballs and gravy would do. Today, Mormor and Poppy are gone but my daughters and I are trying to keeping alive as much as possible from my mother's recipe box. When we are in need of a little comfort food, Mormor's meatballs fit the bill. (I still use the old cast-iron skillet she used for browning the meat.)

MORMOR'S MEATBALLS

2 eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 cup bread crumbs
2 T butter (or ghee)
1/2 cup finely chopped onions
1 pound ground chuck
1 t sea salt, or to taste
1/4 t freshly ground pepper
1 t onion powder
3 T flour
2 cups hot beef stock

In a large bowl, combine the eggs, milk and bread crumbs. Let stand while you melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a skillet. Add the chopped onion and cook until translucent. Add the cooked onions to the egg mixture along with the meat, salt, pepper, and onion powder. With your hands, knead the mixture until well-combined. Refrigerate for about 1 hour. Shape the meat into golf ball-sized balls. Melt the remaining butter in the skillet and brown the meatballs evenly on all sides. Remove them to a saucepan as they are browned. When all the meatballs are browned, stir the flour evenly into the pan drippings, then gradually whisk in the hot stock. When smooth and thickened to the viscosity of heavy cream (you don't want this to be too thick or too thin), pour it into the saucepan over the meatballs and simmer for about 15 to 25 minutes. Check the gravy for seasoning. My mother liked to add a little onion powder to her gravies which I think branded them with her distinctive touch. She also liked to add a few drops of Kitchen Bouquet or Gravy Master to darken the sauce. That's not something I do today but it was routine for my mother's era.

March 13, 2010: Frittata

Frittate, Italian oven omelets, can be served anytime of day. They're equally lovely at the start of the day, for breakfast or brunch, as for a late-night repast. You can add a wide variety of flavors to the basic recipe. I cook the flavorings (such as: onions, sliced garlic, diced or thinly sliced tomatoes, bell peppers, diced potatoes, diced pancetta, or artichoke hearts) in the same pan I'll use for finishing the frittata.

FRITTATA


Olive oil
Flavorings, such as diced vegetables, minced ham, etc. , optional
6 eggs
Sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
Fresh herbs, optional
1 cup freshly grated cheese, such as parmigiano-reggiano or Gruyere
Chopped fresh parsley

Preheat your oven to 425 degrees F.

Pour a glug of olive oil into your oven-proof pan and using a pastry brush or your fingers, spread it over the entire bottom of your baking dish. You can use a large (10") Pyrex pie plate or, what I prefer, a 10-inch cast-iron skillet.) Add your flavorings and place in to oven to cook until tender. While that's cooking, break the eggs into a medium mixing bowl and whisk together with the salt and pepper. When the flavoring vegetables/meats are tender and aromatic, pour in the egg mixture, sprinkle with optional fresh herbs, then sprinkle the grated cheese over the surface. Return to the oven and bake until the eggs are set, puffed and the frittata is golden brown, about 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and cut into wedges. Frittate can be served hot, room temperature or cold.

March 12, 2010: Quiche Lorraine

One Saturday night when I was a teen, Liz, my best friend Laurie's mother, was hostessing a cocktail party. Laurie and I were called into service to help out in the kitchen and to serve. Then, I saw it! There, on a silver platter, was a tasty-looking pastry cut into bite-size squares sitting on a paper doily. I just had to sample it for myself. Never before had I tasted such buttery and salty perfection! This was around 1970 and quiche was mainstreaming its way into mouths of young sophisticates and started to appear on restaurant menus all over town. In turn, it became associated with the artsy set, and the saying, "Real men don't eat quiche" was coined. As far as I'm concerned, all the men in my life have my blessing to eat quiche.

Quiche Lorraine is the most basic of quiche recipes. Use it as a foundation to add your own savory combinations of ingredients, such as fresh herbs, sauteed mushrooms, diced ham, steamed asparagus or broccoli, smoked salmon and fresh dill, chopped cooked spinach, various cheese varieties, sauteed shrimp, sweet or hot peppers... the list is endless. Still, I find the simplicity of the delicate Gruyere-laced custard -- without embellishments -- is most satisfying of all.

QUICHE LORRAINE

1 recipe for single pastry crust
3 large eggs
1/4 t sea salt
A few grindings of fresh pepper
A pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
1/2 cup milk
3/4 cup grated Gruyere cheese
1 1/2 butter, cut into bits

Preheat your oven to 450 degrees F. Line pie or tart pan with pastry dough. Prick the bottom with a fork. Chill for 30 minutes. Butter a piece of foil and set buttered-side-down on the chilled dough. Fill completely with dried beans. Bake in lower level of oven for 8 minutes. Remove foil and beans, prick the bottom again with a fork, return the foil and beans, and bake another 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack. Lower the oven temperature to 375 degrees F. Make the quiche filling: Beat the eggs with the salt, pepper, nutmeg, and milk. Sprinkle the grated cheese over the bottom of the cooled crust. Pour the egg mixture over the cheese. Dot the top with the butter bits. Bake in the upper level of your oven for 30 to 35 minutes, until the quiche is puffy and golden-brown.

March 11, 2010: Karen's Flaky Pie Crust

A flaky pie crust can be tricky to accomplish. The proportion and temperature of your ingredients are crucial to a flaky texture. Is is also important not to handle the dough more than is necessary. Yet, it is the sense of touch that informs you whether you need to perform any recalibration. In the end, when you achieve mastery in the art of pastry dough, you will receive accolades from all who have sampled your pie or, perhaps, your quiche.

By the way, there is a fascinating chapter about searching for the penultimate pie crust recipe in "The Man Who Ate Everything" by Jeffery Steingarten, the award-winning food editor for Vogue magazine. If I remember correctly, the one that came out on top didn't adhere the precautions I mentioned above. It just goes to show...

KAREN'S FLAKY PIE CRUST
For a double-crust pie


2 cups flour
1 cup butter, chilled and cut up into small chunks*
1/2 to 1 t sea salt
3 T ice water, or more if needed*

Place the flour, the butter and salt in the bowl of your food processor. Pulse until the ingredients from a coarse mixture. Add 2 tablespoons of the ice water, adding more water if necessary, and pulse just until the dough holds together. DO NOT over-process and DO NOT add too much water! You don't want a sticky dough. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and gently press it together to form a ball. Cut the ball in half with a pastry cutter. Gently form each half into a disc, wrap in plastic paper and place in the refrigerator for at least one hour.

*I usually cut the butter like this: with a long, sharp knife, cut the stick of butter lengthwise into quarters. Then, cut that crosswise into quarters.

*I place a measuring cup with about a half cup of water and an ice cube or two into the freezer shortly before I start my pastry.

*You can make a pie crust the old-fashioned way if you don't have a food processor. Put in the flour, butter and salt in a large mixing bowl. Cut the butter into the flour with a pastry blender, or with 2 dinner knives, until it resembles coarse meal. Then, gradually sprinkle the ice water over the flour/butter mixture and gently toss and stir with a dinner fork just until the pieces start to hold together. Proceed as above.

*Replace a few tablespoons of butter with chilled lard or Crisco for a lighter crust.

March 10, 2010: Pecan Pie

I am on another sweet streak. Part of the reason for this is: I am withholding all the recipes that I love that should wait for summertime. Why should we be using hothouse tomatoes or corn imported from the other side of the equator when we can get them locally when they're in season? And, while outdoor grilling is possible throughout the year in SoCal, many folks live in climates that aren't barbecue-friendly in March. I'm trying to remain patient by reminding myself that -- Summer cuisine is just around the corner!

Back to sweet pleasures: this pecan pie is out of this world! Well, I suppose any pecan pie is out of this world. It's so simple to make. The only other thing you need to do is to whip up some heavy cream; it's the perfect topping to cut through the sweet density of this pie.

PECAN PIE

1 single unbaked flaky pie crust (don't use a crumb crust!)
4 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup light corn syrup
1/2 T flour
1/4 t sea salt
1 t vanilla extract
1/4 cup butter, melted
2 cups pecan halves
Whipped cream, for serving

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

Line a 9-inch pie plate, or fluted tart pan, with the pie crust. Refrigerate while making the filling. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the sugar, corn syrup, flour, salt, vanilla extract, and butter. Fold in the pecans. Pour the filling into the unbaked pie shell. Bake for 50 minutes, or until the center of the filing is set. Cool pie completely on a wire rack. Chill. Cut into wedges and serve with whipped cream.

*For extra decadence, sprinkle the bottom of the crust with about 1/2 cup chopped dark chocolate before pouring in the pecan filling. Mmmmmm!

March 9, 2010: Key Lime Pie

Key Lime Pie has become part of the American dessert vernacular. A native of Florida, it is sweet (and I mean sweet!), citrus-y sunshine emanating from a crumbly graham cracker crust. When Key Limes are in season, you can squeeze the juice yourself. However, this lime variety is tiny, so the job is a bit tedious. Some stores carry reconstituted key lime juice which is almost as good as fresh. If you can't get the real deal, ordinary limes will suffice.

KEY LIME PIE

1 graham cracker crust, pre-baked
4 eggs yolks
1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
1/3 cup key lime juice
Freshly whipped cream, for serving

Pre-heat your oven to 350 degrees F.

In a medium bowl, beat together the egg yolks, sweetened condensed milk and the lime juice. Pour the filling into the baked pie shell and bake for about 12 minutes. Cool on a rack. Then, chill in your refrigerator before serving (with a good dollop of whipped cream!).

*If you'd like, you can top the pie with a meringue made from the unused egg whites:

Meringue

4 egg whites
Pinch of sea salt
Pinch of cream of tartar
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar

Beat the egg whites with the salt and cream of tartar until foamy. Keep beating, gradually adding the sugar, until the mixture is shiny and holds fairly stiff peaks. Cover the baked pie with the meringue, spreading it all the way to the edges of the crust. Bake in a 35o degree F. oven until lightly browned. Cool on rack, then refrigerate before serving.

March 8, 2010: Graham Cracker Crust

Every home baker should have a fantastic recipe for a graham cracker crust. It is the easiest type of crust to make and this is the one I like best. It is wonderful for cream pies, Key Lime pie and cheesecakes. I usually like to add a bit of ground cinnamon to the recipe. Other types of cookies, such as chocolate wafers, Nilla wafers or gingersnaps, can be substituted for the graham crackers.

GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST

6 T unsalted butter, melted
1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs
3 T sugar
1/4 to 1/2 t ground cinnamon, optional

Put all the ingredients in a medium-sized mixing bowl and combine with a rubber spatula until well blended. Press the crumb mixture evenly into the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie plate. To pre-bake, the crust, heat your oven to 350 degrees F. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, just until it begins to brown. Cook on a rack. The crust will harden as it cools.

*You can buy ready-made graham cracker crumbs or you can make your own. Place about 1 1/2 cups of broken crackers into your food processor with the sugar. Process until you get fine crumbs. Or, to do it the old-fashioned way, place the crumbs in a paper bag and crush the crackers with a rolling pin, rolling it back and forth until you get your fine crumbs.

*NB: Crumb crusts are not always interchangeable with flaky crusts, such as for pies made with fresh fruit.

March 7, 2010: Bulgur Salad with Lentils

Eating a slice of whole-wheat bread is not the only way to get whole grains into your diet. Bulgur, a staple in Middle Eastern cookery, is a very wholesome alternative with a pleasing nutty flavor and light texture. It's a fantastic foundation for salads; tabouleh, in fact, is perhaps the most famous of all bulgur salads. Loaded with parsley and laced with olive oil and lemon juice, the bulgur, however, takes a back seat to the other ingredients. Not so in this salad which I adapted from a recipe I recently found in the New York Times "Recipes for Health" column. I like the addition of lentils for even greater nutritional value.

BULGUR SALAD WITH LENTILS

1 cup green lentils
1 small onion, cut in half
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed slightly
1 bay leaf
Sea salt, to taste
1 cup fine or medium bulgur
4 scallions, thinly sliced
2 ribs celery, diced
1 cup chopped parsley
4 T chopped fresh mint
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1 t toasted cumin seeds, ground
2 T capers
1/2 cup olive oil

Combine the lentils, onion, garlic, salt, and bay leaf in a saucepan. Cover with water by a couple of inches. Bring to a gentle boil, reduce heat and simmer for about 25 minutes, until lentils are tender but not mushy. When done, drain and discard the onion, bay leaf and garlic.Meanwhile, put the bulgur in a medium bowl with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover with boiling water and let stand 25 minutes until most of the water is absorbed. Drain through a mesh strainer and squeeze out the excess water. In a large bowl, gently toss together the cooked lentils, bulgur, scallions, celery, parsley, mint, lemon juice, cumin, capers, and olive oil.

*This is easy to pack for a brown bag lunch to take to school or work.

*Top with crumbled feta to add a serving of protein.

March 6, 2010: Hungarian Goulash

Goulash is the national dish of Hungary, although other countries in that geographical regions have their own variations. We fondly remember Aunt Alice's Slovak version. Whenever we flew out from Los Angeles to visit her in Chicago, she always had a goulash ready to serve on our first night. It was especially delicious in wintertime, when the temperature was sub-freezing and it was dark outside. Such a cozy memory.

Quite simply, goulash is a shepherd's soup or stew comprised of beef, paprika and onions. This version also includes the fragrant bouquet of tomatoes, red bell pepper, hot pale-green Italian frying peppers, garlic, and caraway seeds. The addition of egg noodles at end of the cooking gives the dish body and makes it a one-pot meal.

HUNGARIAN GOULASH

1 T bacon fat (or oil or butter/ghee)
1 large onion, chopped
1 T minced garlic
2 T sweet paprika (imported Hungarian is recommended)
1/2 t caraway seeds
2 pounds rump roast, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 medium parsnip, peeled and chopped
4 cups beef stock
2 pale-green Italian frying peppers, cut into 1-inch slices
1 red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
4 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
Sea salt, to taste
4 ounces wide egg noodles

Melt the bacon grease (or oil/butter) in a large, heavy casserole. Add the onions and saute for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute for another 5 minutes. Stir in the paprika and caraway seeds. Add the beef, parsnip and stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 1 1/2 hours. Add the peppers, potatoes and tomatoes. Cook on medium heat for another 30 minutes. Stir in the egg noodles and cook for another 10 minutes, or until the noodles are tender.

*How do you peel a tomato? I didn't know the first time the task was before me, that's for sure! I was making spaghetti sauce, hoping to impress my future mother-in-law because I was using fresh tomatoes instead of canned. It was a messy ordeal but I succeeded in garnering Toodie's respect. Years later, I learned a trick of the trade, which I'll now share with you. Bring a pot of water to the boil; drop the tomatoes into the hot water; remove from the heat; let the tomatoes stand in the hot water for 14 seconds (or more if the tomatoes aren't quite ripe); drain; the skins should easily slip off.

March 5, 2010: Challah

The first time I baked challah was for a bread pudding recipe. I knew the origin was Jewish but didn't know how steeped in ritual and tradition it was. According to Jewish tradition, challah is served during the Sabbath and holidays as dictated by the Bible. I think this wonderful braided loaf is delicious any day of the year! It's not only wonderful in bread pudding, it is marvelous toasted and spread with sweet butter and your favorite jam or as the foundation of your favorite sandwich. My girls made many requests for me to make challah, especially looking forward to devouring a slice or two soon after the loaves were out of the oven.

In order for this recipe to be pareve, that is a food that can be eaten indiscriminately with both meat or dairy dishes as according to Jewish dietary laws, you will have to substitute the butter with margarine or vegetable oil.

CHALLAH
2 loaves

Dough
1 package dry yeast
1 cup warm water
Pinch of sugar
5 cups of flour, approximately
2 T sugar
1 1/2 t sea salt
1/3 cup butter, room temperature (or margarine or vegetable oil)
1 pinch saffron
3 eggs + 1 egg white, room temperature (reserve yolk for glaze, below)

Glaze
1 egg yolk
2 T sugar
1 t water
Poppy seeds

In the large bowl of your electric mixer, sprinkle the yeast and pinch of sugar over the warm water. Stir to activate. When bubbly, beat in 3 cups of flour with the sugar, salt, butter, saffron, and 3 eggs, and egg white. Beat for about 2 minutes. Gradually beat in the remaining flour. Knead with your dough hook for about 6 minutes (or turn onto a floured surface to knead by hand, about 8 minutes) until the dough is smooth and elastic. Place the dough into a clean large glass or ceramic bowl that has been oiled. Cover the bowl with plastic paper and a towel. Put it in a warm, draft-free place to rise until it is double in bulk, about 1 hour. Punch the dough down and knead out the bubbles. Divide in half and let rest for 5 minutes. Divide each half into thirds and roll each third into a 12-inch rope. Form each loaf by braiding 3 ropes together and pinching the ends securely together. Place the loaves on a oiled baking sheet. Prepare the glaze: mix together the egg yolk, sugar and water and brush on the challah. Sprinkle with poppy seeds. This time, let the loaves rise uncovered uncovered, until double in bulk. Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 400 degrees F. When risen, bake the challah for about 30 minutes, until a wooden toothpick comes out clean and dry. Remove from oven and carefully place on wire racks to cool.

March 4, 2010: Dill Bread

When I catered, it was my pleasure to serve home baked bread. Dill Bread was one of the favorites. When baking it, the aroma emanating from the oven and wafting through the house is especially mesmerizing. It must be the dill weed and the onion make it so alluring. The original recipe calls for baking it in a casserole dish; I prefer to use metal loaf pans.

DILL BREAD
Makes 3 loaves

2 package dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water
2 cup cottage cheese, room temperature
4 T sugar
2 T dried onion bits
4 t dill weed
2 t sea salt
1/2 t baking soda
2 eggs, room temperature
4 1/2 to 5 cups flour
1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water
Poppy seeds

Pour the warm water into the bowl of your electric mixer. Sprinkle the yeast over the water with a pinch of sugar. Stir briskly with a fork or small whisk to hasten the action. When bubbly, mix in the cottage cheese, sugar, onion bits, dill weed, sea salt, and egg. On low speed, gradually beat in the flour. The mixture will be sticky. Scrape into an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and a towel and let rise in a warm place until double, about one hour. Remove plastic wrap and turn dough out onto a floured surface. Divide into thirds. Gently form each portion into a loaf and place in a buttered 8 1/2 by 4 1/2 loaf pan. Cover with a towel and let rise in a warm place until double, about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 350 degrees F. When risen, very lightly brush the top of each loaf with the egg wash and sprinkle with poppy seeds. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until brown. Turn out onto a wire rack to cool.

*You can also make Dill Muffins: divide the dough into 24 pieces, form into balls and place in a muffin tins. Baking time will be reduced -- maybe to 25 to 30 minutes.

March 3, 2010: 72 Market Street Meatloaf

I was hunting for new catering ideas when I found this recipe in "The New Basics Cookbook," written by the Silver Palette's founders Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Hollywood stars, Tony Bill and Dudley Moore, opened 72 Market Street in Venice, CA in the Eighties bringing sophisticated and updated versions of American fare to an upscale and glittery clientele. When they asked their chef to create a meatloaf to add to the menu, it seems they were at the cusp of the comfort food trend we are experiencing today; think Mac 'n Cheese and cupcakes! Market Street Meatloaf is more complex than most versions our moms made back in the day. (The cumin lends a hint of the Southwest.) But, it is worth every ounce of effort!. (My catering clients were kind of lucky, though; all they had to do is order it from my Karen's Kitchen frozen dinners menu and reheat it.)

Today, the restaurant and Karen's Kitchen Catering have shuttered, but you can still savor a superb 72 Market Street Meatloaf by preparing it in your own kitchen.

MARKET STREET MEATLOAF
From "The New Basics Cookbook" by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins

3 T ghee (or unsalted butter)
3/4 cup minced onion
3/4 cup minced scallions
1/2 cup minced carrots
1/4 cup minced celery
1/2 cup minced red bell pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
3 eggs
1/2 cup ketchup
1/2 cup half and half
Sea salt, to taste
1 t freshly ground black pepper
1/2 t ground white pepper
1/4 t cayenne pepper
1 t ground cumin
1/2 t freshly grated nutmeg
2 pounds lean ground beef chuck
12 ounces sausage meat (not fennel-flavored Italian sausage)
3/4 cup fine fresh bread crumbs

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.

Melt the ghee (or butter) in a large, heavy skillet. Add the onions, scallions, carrots, celery, bell pepper, and garlic. Saute, stirring often, until the vegetables have softened. Set aside. Beat the eggs in a large mixing bowl. Beat in the ketchup, half and half, and the spices. Add the chuck, sausage, bread crumbs, and the cooled vegetables. Combine the ingredients with your hands until thoroughly blended. With damp hands, form the mixture into a loaf and place in a buttered baking dish. Place the dish inside a larger dish, pouring boiling water into the larger pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until the juices run clear when the loaf is pricked. Remove the baking dish from the larger pan and let it rest 20 minutes before slicing.

*Garlic-mashed potatoes or orange-maple mashed yams are perfect accompaniments. Add a steamed green vegetable, like asparagus or broccoli, for a delicious homemade blue-plate special.

March 2, 2010: Snickerdoodles

Snickerdoodles are an all-around favorite. They are unfancy sugar cookies that have been rolled in cinnamon sugar before baking. Every bite melts in your mouth. Funny, before I ever discovered snickerdoodles I learned of snickerpoodles on Two Dog Cafe, a pet-focused cooking show on the Food Network. Crazy...

SNICKERDOODLES

1 cup unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 eggs
1 t vanilla extract
2 3/4 cups flour
1 t baking soda
1/2 t sea salt
2 t cream of tartar
1 T sugar
1 T ground cinnamon

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F.

In the medium bowl of your electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, scraping the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula to ensure the mixture is thoroughly blended. Beat in the vanilla. On low speed, add one cup of the flour with the baking soda, salt and cream of tartar. Gradually add the rest of the flour, stirring until thoroughly blended. Combine one tablespoon each of sugar and cinnamon in a small mixing bowl. Shape the dough into 1-inch balls, roll in the sugar-cinnamon mixture and place 2 inches apart on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper (or a buttered cookie sheet). Bake the cookies for 6 minutes or until lightly browned. If needed, change the position of the cookie sheets from top to bottom, back to front, midway through the baking to ensure even results. Remove to a wire rack to cool. Store in an air-tight container. Makes about 4 dozen snickerdoodles.

March 1, 2010: Egyptian Red Lentil Soup

Update: I made the Fennel Vichyssoise (February 17, 2010) over the weekend and I have to report it is simply delicious. The fennel adds a subtle shade of flavor and interest that complement the classic ingredients. For the stock, I used freshly-made Mock Chicken Stock (February 16, 2010). (Another excellent report.) Finally, I passed the finished soup through my food mill to achieve a smooth and velvety texture.

What I love about having homemade soup in the refrigerator is how marvelously easy it is to get ready. After a long and busy day at work (or play), all you need to do is reheat it, preferably o the stove. A warm bowl of soup is a classic way to soothe the soul into a restful evening and, hopefully, sweet dreams. This Egyptian-inspired soup, filled with the nutritional benefits of lentils and turmeric, was created by the chefs at the Moosewood Restaurant.

EGYPTIAN RED LENTIL SOUP

From "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special"

5 cups water
1 cup dried red lentils
2 cups chopped onions
2 cups chopped potatoes
8 cloves garlic, peeled
1 T ghee or olive oil
2 t ground cumin
1/2 t turmeric
1 t sea salt
1/2 chopped cilantro
3 T fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Combine the water, lentils, onions, potatoes, and garlic in a soup pot. Cover, bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the ingredients are tender. Remove from the heat. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat the ghee or olive oil. Add the cumin, turmeric and salt; cook, stirring, until the cumin releases its flavor, about 2 minutes. Let it cool for a minute, then add it to the soup pot with the cilantro . Working in batches, puree the ingredients in your blender or food processor. Add the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Gently reheat the soup before serving.

February 28, 2010: Lemony Cream Cheese Squares

I can tell my sweet tooth is waking up whenever I write about sweets. Alas, today is such a day and Lemony Cream Cheese Squares are on my mind. These bar cookies have a cream cheese topping and resemble snack-size cheesecakes. I served them on many a dessert table during my catering days. They are another jewel from Maida Heatter's "Book of Great Cookies".

LEMONY CREAM CHEESE SQUARES
From Maida Heatter's "Book of Great Cookies"

5 1/3 T butter
1/3 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup flour
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
Finely grated rind of 1 lemon
1 T lemon juice
8 ounces cream cheese, preferably at room temperature
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 t vanilla extract
1 egg

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F. Butter an 8-inch square brownie pan.

Place the butter, brown sugar, flour, and walnuts into the bowl of your food processor. Process by pulsing until the mixture is crumbly. Reserve 1 cup and evenly distribute the rest over the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, place the cream cheese in a medium bowl and beat until softened and smooth. Add the sugar and beat well. Add the vanilla and egg and beat to mix well. Add the lemon rind and lemon juice. Pour over the baked crust, Carefully sprinkle the reserved crumbs evenly over the filling. Bake for 25 minutes. Cool the cake in its pan to room temperature. Refrigerate for at least an hour. With a small, sharp knife cut around the sides to release. Cut the cake into quarters. With a wide metal spatula transfer the quarters to a cutting board, then cut each quarter into quarters. Store in an air-tight in the refrigerator or freezer. (Squares may be served directly from the freezer.)