May 10, 2010: Oven-Braised Halibut with Tomatoes and Capers

This preparation is simple yet elegant. Oven-braising the fish in a bath of vermouth and stock keeps it succulent and moist. The sauce is made by reducing the cooking liquids with chopped shallots, then finished with fresh tomato bits, butter and capers. I suggest you use fresh, wild-caught fish for best results.

OVEN-BRAISED HALIBUT WITH TOMATOES AND CAPERS

2 pounds boneless halibut fillets, rinsed and patted dry
1 to 2 T melted ghee or olive oil
Smoked sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 bay leaf
1 cup vermouth
1 cup fish or light chicken stock
2 T chopped shallots, scallions or onions
1 1/2 c chopped peeled, juiced and seeded tomatoes
2 T ghee, optional
1 T capers, drained
Minced fresh parsley

Pre-heat your oven to 400 degrees F.

Arrange the fillets in a single layer in a buttered baking dish. Brush with melted ghee or olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place the bay leaf in the center of the dish and pour the vermouth and stock around the fish. Place in the oven and bake for 15 minutes, basting with the pan liquids several times during the cooking. The fish Add the shallots. Cover the fish with foil to keep warm while making the sauce. Place the saucepan on the stove over high heat and quickly boil down the liquid until it is almost syrupy. Add the chopped tomato bits and cook, stirring, until warmed through. Whisk in bits of butter if you wish to enrich the sauce. Finally, toss in the capers and stir through. Spoon sauce over the fillets and sprinkle each with minced parsley.

May 3, 2010: Whole Wheat Scones

With Mothers' Day around the corner, how to celebrate is on every one's mind. The kindergarten class at Mariposa (the elementary school where I run the front office) is planning to treat their mommy's to a tea party. Their teacher, Miss Debbie, asked me for some ideas and scones immediately came to mind. Since Mariposa is a health-conscious community, I adapted my scone recipe by substituting whole wheat flour for the white. I used half whole wheat pastry flour and half regular whole wheat. The result was surprisingly light with a pleasingly nutty and grainy texture. Serve them with preserves and a dab of Devonshire cream or freshly whipped heavy cream at your next tea party.

WHOLE WHEAT SCONES
One dozen

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1 cup regular whole wheat flour
2 t baking powder
1/2 t baking soda
Scant 1/2 t sea salt
2 T organic sugar
8 T unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 egg yolk
3/4 cup buttermilk
1 egg white
Additional organic sugar for sprinkling

Pre-heat your oven to 375 degrees F.

Put both flours, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt into the bowl of your food processor. Pulse a few times to mix the dry ingredients. Add the cut-up butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the egg yolk to the buttermilk and gently blend together with a fork or small whisk. Add this mixture to the dry ingredients in the food processor. Pulse the mixture just until it starts to hold together. Do not over-process! Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and gently knead about a dozen times, until it holds together. Divide the dough in half. Form each half into a ball, then using your knuckles, pat each ball into a 6-inch disk. Cut each disk into 6 wedges. Carefully transfer each wedge onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush each scone with lightly beaten egg white and sprinkle with sugar crystals. Bake for 18 to 22 minutes, until medium brown. (Check the scones at about 10 minutes and change the position of the baking sheet from front to back for even baking.)Although scones are best served fresh, you can store them in an airtight containter then refresh them in a 350 degree F. oven for a few minutes.

May 2, 2010: Caramelized Spring Onions

I've been on hiatus from writing my kitchen diary due to an identity crisis. My initial inspiration was to share my personal food journey dedicated to well-being using a cornucopia of healthy recipes made from fresh and local ingredients and prepared in a healthy manner. Instead, I created a crazy quilt that partially fulfilled that promise but I stitched together many other patches of decadent desserts and heavy dishes. I felt pressured to write a daily entry so I scoured my cookbook library and recipe box for any recipe, as long it was "seasonal". I ended up losing steam and falling into a rut... until today!

The Southern California farmers markets are perking up! Today, in Studio City, amongst the waning crops of winter vegetables, I found fresh crunchy cucumbers, several varieties of summer squash, peas -- both English and crisp snappers, and... spring onions! It was a bunch of red spring onions that caught my fancy and re-ignited my food passion. Instead of firing up the grill, I decided to caramelize the onions in the oven; the result was glorious. They'd be perfect with grilled or roasted meat, fowl or fish or as part of a vegetarian platter. Hmmmm, maybe even as a sandwich condiment.

The sumptuous summer table is definitely going to inspire me. (All winter I've been wanting to share my gazpacho recipe, but because it's made from summer crops I couldn't! You'll still have to wait until July.) You'll still see desserts showing up (what's summer without sorbet or homemade ice cream?!) and dishes that have sentimental meaning that aren't so good for overall wellness. Because food is inextricably enmeshed in our personal cultural histories, it's hard to not to include them. The key is balance: food is above-all nutrition, but it also evokes memories, provides comfort and is fun!

CARAMELIZED SPRING ONIONS

1 bunch spring onions, washed (do not remove the outer skin)
Olive oil, about 3 tablespoons
Smoky sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
Balsamic vinegar, about 1 tablespoon
Raw sugar

Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Shave the roots from the bottom of each onion without completely removing them. Cut off the green end from each onion leaving about 1 inch. Quarter each onion, being careful to leave the onion layers attached at the root end. Place them in a single layer, skin-side-down, in an oiled baking dish. Brush each quarter with olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Cover the dish with foil and place in the oven. Roast the onions for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, remove the foil, brush each quarter with balsamic vinegar and sprinkle with a few sugar crystals. Turn each quarter onto one side. Return to the oven. After 15 minutes, turn each quarter on its other side, Baste with the oil and vinegar in the dish. Return to the oven. After another 15 minutes, repeat the turning and basting. Bake another 15 minutes or until tender.

March 21, 2010: Grape Leaves with Rice, Pine Nuts and Currants

I catered many cocktail parties in during the Karen's Kitchen days. I looked for hors d'oeuvre that I could prepare in advance but would still be fresh. Stuffed grape leaves, or dolmas, were perfect. They require time to assemble, but after they are steamed and packed away, they are easy to arrange on a tray for serving. This is a nice, light vegetarian version from the Time-Life International Cookbook.

GRAPE LEAVES WITH RICE, PINE NUTS AND CURRANTS

5 T olive oil
1 cup minced onions
1/3 cup uncooked white rice, long or medium grain
3/4 cup water
1/2 t sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 T pine nuts, lightly toasted in the oven
2 T dried currants
40 preserved grape leaves
2 T cold water
Lemon wedges

In a large, heavy skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onions and cook until translucent. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Pour in the water, add the salt and a few grindings of pepper. Bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the rice is tender and the liquid has been absorbed. Add the toasted pine nuts and currants to the rice. in a large pot, bring 2 quarts of water to the boil. Drop in the grape leaves and immediately turn off the heat. Let the leaves soak for 1 minutes. Drain in a colander and plunge them into a bowl of cold water. Gently separate the leaves and place them, dull sides up, on paper towels to drain. Place about 10 leaves on the bottom of a heavy 3-quart pot. Then, stuff the remaining leaves: spread the leaf dull side up. Place 1 tablespoon of the filling in the center of the leaf. Turn up the stem end of the leaf, then fold over, one at a time, fold over each of the sides to enclose the stuffing completely. Then roll into a compact cylinder (the leaf surfaces should cling together). Stack the dolmas, seam-side-down, side by side in your prepared pot. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the cold water. Place over high heat for 3 minutes, reduce to a low simmer and steam, tightly covered, for 50 minutes. Uncover and cool to room temperature. Serve with lemon wedges.

*The Time-Life International Illustrated Library of Cooking is a wonderful resource. The recipes are notable for their authenticity and the contributors to the series were known experts in the culinary field.

*Pack a few dolmas, a small container of homemade hummus, some pita bread, and a few olives, cucumber slices and cherry tomatoes for a tasty Mediterranean lunch. You'll be the envy of the lunchroom!

March 20, 2010: Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Okay, Spaghetti Carbonara doesn't fit the bill of healthy fare but I happen to think it is one of the most magnificent pasta dishes ever devised. It is an Italian classic.

(I am considering making it the night before my half-marathon next week to carbo-load. Buon appetito!)

SPAGHETTI ALLA CARBONARA

4 T soft butter
2 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
1 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano
1 t sea salt
1 pound spaghetti
1 T olive oil
8 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4 inch strips
1/2 cup heavy cream
Freshly ground pepper

In a large pot, bring 8 quarts of salted water to boil. Heat a large ovenproof casserole in a 200 degree F. oven. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, cream the softened butter with a wooden spoon until it is light and fluffy. In another bowl, whisk the eggs and egg yolks until well-blended, then stir in 1/2 cup of the grated cheese. When the water reaches the boil, add the spaghetti and the tablespoon of oil. Stir to make sure the spaghetti doesn't stick together. Cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Meanwhile, saute the bacon pieces in a medium skillet until crisp. Pour off half of the bacon fat, then stir in the cream. Bring the cream to a simmer. When the spaghetti is cooked, drain it and transfer it to the heated casserole. Using two forks, toss in the creamed butter, then the hot bacon and cream mixture, and finally the egg and cheese mixture. Mix everything thoroughly. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately, passing the remaining 1/2 cup of grated cheese at the table.

March 19, 2010: Hummus

Hummus is the popular Middle Eastern spread made from mashed chickpeas (garbanzos). It is traditionally served as an appetizer with wedges of pita bread or as an accompaniment to many Middle Eastern dishes. There are a vast variety of commercial products at your grocery that are quite good, but I find making my own fresh from scratch beats them all. Hummus very easy to make if you have a food processor or blender. The following recipe does not contain tahini, a sesame paste, that you'll find in most traditional recipes. Honestly, I've never made it with tahini, but I'll let you know when I try it.

HUMMUS

2 cups cooked chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
1 12 sea salt
3 cloves garlic, put through a press
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 t0 1 t freshly ground toasted cumin
Freshly chopped mint, for garnish

If your chick-peas are canned, thoroughly rinse them under running cold water and drain. Place the chick-peas, salt, garlic, olive oil, and lemon juice in the container of your food processor or blender. Process at high speed for about 10 seconds. Stop the blender and scrape down the sides of the container with a rubber spatula. Process again until the hummus is a very smooth puree, just thick enough to hold its shape in a spoon. Spoon into a serving bowl and garnish chopped mint.

*Hummus has great nutritional value. It is high in vitamin C and iron and is a good source of dietary fiber. When eaten with grains or bread, it is a complete protein.

*Blue corn chips make especially good scoops for hummus.

March 18, 2010: Madeleines

Madeleines are a French classic. Neither a cookie nor a cake, they are made from a light spongecake (or genoise) batter and baked in special shell-shaped molds. They are perfect with a cup of tea or a latte or... instead of a cookie, serve a madeleine with a dish of ice cream or fruit. C'est delicieuse!

MADELEINES

2 T softened butter
2 eggs
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 t vanilla extract
1/2 cup all-purpose flour, sifted three times
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled to room temperature

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.

Thoroughly grease the madeleine molds with the softened butter. Place the eggs, sugar and vanilla in the bowl of your electric mixer. Beat until it is tripled in bulk, or a thick ribbon drops from the beater when it is lifted from the bowl. With a rubber spatula, fold in the flour, a tablespoon or two at a time. Then, gradually fold in the melted butter. Spoon the batter into each shell of the the madeleine pan until two-thirds full. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until the cakes are lightly browned. Remove the madeleines from the molds to cool on a wire rack.

*Add poppy seeds for a festive variation.

March 17, 2010: Mr. Jeff's Corned Beef and Cabbage

St. Patrick's Day started out in no ordinary manner. It was an extraordinarily gorgeous California spring day. Under a sunny, blue sky, the hillsides were all shades of green with patches of yellow mustard, orange poppies and purple lupin. You would think that would be enough magic for one day. But no! I visited the kindergarten room on my way to the school office: tiny leprechaun footprints and gold dust covered the floor! They had played mischievous pranks during the night to surprise the children when they came to school. With a wide grin on my face, I continued on my way. Then, I met my usual early morning visitors, Cheyanne and Sadie, who this morning were more excited than I had ever seen them! They had further reports of green mischief from they encountered at home: Clothes in wrong closets; painted mirrors; cereals in the wrong boxes! Soon, I began to develop an Irish brogue while the Chieftains played Irish airs on the CD player throughout the day. Then! Mr. Jeff, our principal and the best boss in the world, served the homemade corned beef and cabbage he made to the staff for lunch. It was so good, I'm asked him if I could share it here. Mmmm! What a wonderful St. Patrick's Day. It was a day filled with magic and promise, love and laughter, and fun just for the sake of... fun!

MR. JEFF'S CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE

6 carrots, cut into chunks
2 onions, chopped
2-3 corned beef brisket with seasoning packet
12 ounces beer
2 T yellow mustard
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 cup water
8 wedges cabbage
Potato chunks, optional

In a 4 - 6 quart crock pot, combine the carrots, onions and optional potatoes. Rinse the corned beef under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Place into the crock pot and sprinkle with the seasoning mix. Pour beer over the brisket and spread mustard on the brisket. In a small bowl mix the brown sugar with water and pour over the meat. Cover the crock pot and cook on low setting for 10 hours.

Remove the corned beef from the crock pot and keep warm. Add the cabbage wedges to the vegetables and liquid in the crock pot. Cover and cook on high for another 30 to 40 minutes, or until the cabbage is crisp tender.

To serve: cut the corned beef across the grain into thin slices. Remove the vegetables from the crock pot with a slotted spoon and serve with the meat. Serve the cooking juices separately. Offer additional mustard on the side. Makes 8 servings.

*Thank you, Mr. Jeff!

March 16, 2010: Caesar Salad

Encountering an authentic Caesar Salad is like searching for a needle in a haystack. There has been an explosion of versions that claim to be Caesar, but it is virtually impossible to find one that comes close to the original salad concocted by Caesar Cardini in his Tijuana restaurant, circa 1925 (during the Prohibition era, Californians crossed the border for their fun!). The main difference I find between wanna-be and the original Caesar salad is in the pitch of the flavor. The original is subtle and well-balanced compared to the blast of garlic and blizzard of cheese that is typical of current renditions. Julia Child added the following, well-researched recipe to her book, "From Julia Child's Kitchen," including the dramatic table-side presentation. Now, you can have an authentic Caesar fresh from your own kitchen!

CAESAR SALAD

24 leaves of romaine lettuce, gently washed, dried and chilled
2 cloves garlic
Sea salt
3/4 cup olive oil
2 cups unseasoned toasted croutons
1 lemon
2 eggs
1/4 cup reggiano-parmigiano
Freshly ground pepper
Worcestershire sauce

Croutons

Puree the garlic through a garlic press into a small heavy bowl. Mash to a smooth paste with a pestle or spoon. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt and dribble in 3 tablespoons oil. Strain into a small frying pan and heat just to warm. Add the croutons, toss for about a minute over moderate heat, then turn into a serving bowl.

Other Preliminaries

Squeeze the lemon into a pitcher. Boil the eggs exactly 1 minute. Place the cheese into a nice bowl. Arrange these and all the ingredients on a tray. Chill your salad plates. Arrange the romaine in a large salad bowl.

Mixing the Salad

"Prepare to use large rather slow and dramatic gestures for everything you do, as though you were Caesar himself." Pour 4 tablespoons over the romaine and give the leaves 2 gentle rolling tosses. Sprinkle on 1/4 teaspoon slat, 8 grindings of pepper, 2 more tablespoons of oil, and give another gentle, but thorough, toss. Pour on the lemon juice, 6 drops of Worcestershire Sauce, and break the eggs over the salad. Toss Twice, sprinkle on the cheese. Toss once, then sprinkle on the croutons and give 2 final tosses.

Serving

Arrange the salad rapidly but "stylishly" leaf by leaf on each plate, stems facing outward, and a sprinkling of croutons at the side. Guests may eat the salad with their fingers, in the approved and original Caesar manner, or may use knives and forks -- which they will need anyway for the croutons.

*Note: there are no anchovies, as you find in many other Caesar recipes. Actually, it's the Worcestershire sauce which contains the touch of anchovy to add to the flavor bouquet of the salad.

March 15, 2010: Springtime Asparagus

Finally, asparagus is showing up at the farmers' market. It is one of the culinary harbingers of springtime and a sign that the winter season is fading into memory. I refuse, absolutely refuse, to eat asparagus anytime of the year but now. When I was little, I only knew the Jolly Green Giant's canned version, available spring, summer, fall, and winter. Mr. Giant's version was a dull green, limp stalk that, until I knew better, was kind of tasty. I categorized it as vegetable that appealed to adult tastes. So, when I discovered I enjoyed eating asparagus, I considered myself rather sophisticated and grown-up. Ha!

Fast forward to the mid-seventies in Chicago. I was a young, naive bride and Tom and I were visiting friends for dinner. They were so elated that fresh asparagus was in season that it practically dominated their menu. That was my first taste and I have been a fan ever since! I love it simply lightly boiled, or blanched, served au natural. Although, I have to admit that a fine Hollandaise Sauce is a marvelous complement, when I feel like indulging.

SPRINGTIME ASPARAGUS

1 bunch medium-diameter asparagus
Salted water

Fill a large, covered saute pan with a couple inches of salted water. Cover and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, with a vegetable peeler, gently peel away the tough skin at the bottom end of each asparagus stalk, about three inches from the bottom toward the tip. Make a fresh cut on the bottom end of each stalk. When the water is boiling, add the asparagus and gently boil until it turn a nice bright green, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove a stalk with a pair of tongs to test for tenderness. I like my asparagus just slightly limp. Cook longer, if desired. Drain and serve immediately, or use in a recipe.

*Thickness is a matter of preference. I know folks who simply love the skinny-minny stalks while others prefer the fatter-dimensioned variety. Obviously, cooking time must be adjusted according to the girth of the asparagus you are preparing.

March 14, 2010: Mormor's Meatballs

Mormor is the name my daughters gave my mother. In Norwegian it literally means "mother's mother." Like many grandmothers, Mormor's kitchen was legendary. Although her cooking was simple, you could taste every soupcon of love she put into every meal she prepared. Her meatballs (kottboller, pronounced shut-boller) were legendary in our family lore. My father (the girls called him Poppy, a decidedly non-Norwegian name) enjoyed them so much that he insisted she serve them every time we had an Italian spaghetti dinner. No spicy meatballs for my dad! Only the finest Norwegian-style meatballs and gravy would do. Today, Mormor and Poppy are gone but my daughters and I are trying to keeping alive as much as possible from my mother's recipe box. When we are in need of a little comfort food, Mormor's meatballs fit the bill. (I still use the old cast-iron skillet she used for browning the meat.)

MORMOR'S MEATBALLS

2 eggs
1 cup milk
1/2 cup bread crumbs
2 T butter (or ghee)
1/2 cup finely chopped onions
1 pound ground chuck
1 t sea salt, or to taste
1/4 t freshly ground pepper
1 t onion powder
3 T flour
2 cups hot beef stock

In a large bowl, combine the eggs, milk and bread crumbs. Let stand while you melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a skillet. Add the chopped onion and cook until translucent. Add the cooked onions to the egg mixture along with the meat, salt, pepper, and onion powder. With your hands, knead the mixture until well-combined. Refrigerate for about 1 hour. Shape the meat into golf ball-sized balls. Melt the remaining butter in the skillet and brown the meatballs evenly on all sides. Remove them to a saucepan as they are browned. When all the meatballs are browned, stir the flour evenly into the pan drippings, then gradually whisk in the hot stock. When smooth and thickened to the viscosity of heavy cream (you don't want this to be too thick or too thin), pour it into the saucepan over the meatballs and simmer for about 15 to 25 minutes. Check the gravy for seasoning. My mother liked to add a little onion powder to her gravies which I think branded them with her distinctive touch. She also liked to add a few drops of Kitchen Bouquet or Gravy Master to darken the sauce. That's not something I do today but it was routine for my mother's era.

March 13, 2010: Frittata

Frittate, Italian oven omelets, can be served anytime of day. They're equally lovely at the start of the day, for breakfast or brunch, as for a late-night repast. You can add a wide variety of flavors to the basic recipe. I cook the flavorings (such as: onions, sliced garlic, diced or thinly sliced tomatoes, bell peppers, diced potatoes, diced pancetta, or artichoke hearts) in the same pan I'll use for finishing the frittata.

FRITTATA


Olive oil
Flavorings, such as diced vegetables, minced ham, etc. , optional
6 eggs
Sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
Fresh herbs, optional
1 cup freshly grated cheese, such as parmigiano-reggiano or Gruyere
Chopped fresh parsley

Preheat your oven to 425 degrees F.

Pour a glug of olive oil into your oven-proof pan and using a pastry brush or your fingers, spread it over the entire bottom of your baking dish. You can use a large (10") Pyrex pie plate or, what I prefer, a 10-inch cast-iron skillet.) Add your flavorings and place in to oven to cook until tender. While that's cooking, break the eggs into a medium mixing bowl and whisk together with the salt and pepper. When the flavoring vegetables/meats are tender and aromatic, pour in the egg mixture, sprinkle with optional fresh herbs, then sprinkle the grated cheese over the surface. Return to the oven and bake until the eggs are set, puffed and the frittata is golden brown, about 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and cut into wedges. Frittate can be served hot, room temperature or cold.

March 12, 2010: Quiche Lorraine

One Saturday night when I was a teen, Liz, my best friend Laurie's mother, was hostessing a cocktail party. Laurie and I were called into service to help out in the kitchen and to serve. Then, I saw it! There, on a silver platter, was a tasty-looking pastry cut into bite-size squares sitting on a paper doily. I just had to sample it for myself. Never before had I tasted such buttery and salty perfection! This was around 1970 and quiche was mainstreaming its way into mouths of young sophisticates and started to appear on restaurant menus all over town. In turn, it became associated with the artsy set, and the saying, "Real men don't eat quiche" was coined. As far as I'm concerned, all the men in my life have my blessing to eat quiche.

Quiche Lorraine is the most basic of quiche recipes. Use it as a foundation to add your own savory combinations of ingredients, such as fresh herbs, sauteed mushrooms, diced ham, steamed asparagus or broccoli, smoked salmon and fresh dill, chopped cooked spinach, various cheese varieties, sauteed shrimp, sweet or hot peppers... the list is endless. Still, I find the simplicity of the delicate Gruyere-laced custard -- without embellishments -- is most satisfying of all.

QUICHE LORRAINE

1 recipe for single pastry crust
3 large eggs
1/4 t sea salt
A few grindings of fresh pepper
A pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
1/2 cup milk
3/4 cup grated Gruyere cheese
1 1/2 butter, cut into bits

Preheat your oven to 450 degrees F. Line pie or tart pan with pastry dough. Prick the bottom with a fork. Chill for 30 minutes. Butter a piece of foil and set buttered-side-down on the chilled dough. Fill completely with dried beans. Bake in lower level of oven for 8 minutes. Remove foil and beans, prick the bottom again with a fork, return the foil and beans, and bake another 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack. Lower the oven temperature to 375 degrees F. Make the quiche filling: Beat the eggs with the salt, pepper, nutmeg, and milk. Sprinkle the grated cheese over the bottom of the cooled crust. Pour the egg mixture over the cheese. Dot the top with the butter bits. Bake in the upper level of your oven for 30 to 35 minutes, until the quiche is puffy and golden-brown.

March 11, 2010: Karen's Flaky Pie Crust

A flaky pie crust can be tricky to accomplish. The proportion and temperature of your ingredients are crucial to a flaky texture. Is is also important not to handle the dough more than is necessary. Yet, it is the sense of touch that informs you whether you need to perform any recalibration. In the end, when you achieve mastery in the art of pastry dough, you will receive accolades from all who have sampled your pie or, perhaps, your quiche.

By the way, there is a fascinating chapter about searching for the penultimate pie crust recipe in "The Man Who Ate Everything" by Jeffery Steingarten, the award-winning food editor for Vogue magazine. If I remember correctly, the one that came out on top didn't adhere the precautions I mentioned above. It just goes to show...

KAREN'S FLAKY PIE CRUST
For a double-crust pie


2 cups flour
1 cup butter, chilled and cut up into small chunks*
1/2 to 1 t sea salt
3 T ice water, or more if needed*

Place the flour, the butter and salt in the bowl of your food processor. Pulse until the ingredients from a coarse mixture. Add 2 tablespoons of the ice water, adding more water if necessary, and pulse just until the dough holds together. DO NOT over-process and DO NOT add too much water! You don't want a sticky dough. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and gently press it together to form a ball. Cut the ball in half with a pastry cutter. Gently form each half into a disc, wrap in plastic paper and place in the refrigerator for at least one hour.

*I usually cut the butter like this: with a long, sharp knife, cut the stick of butter lengthwise into quarters. Then, cut that crosswise into quarters.

*I place a measuring cup with about a half cup of water and an ice cube or two into the freezer shortly before I start my pastry.

*You can make a pie crust the old-fashioned way if you don't have a food processor. Put in the flour, butter and salt in a large mixing bowl. Cut the butter into the flour with a pastry blender, or with 2 dinner knives, until it resembles coarse meal. Then, gradually sprinkle the ice water over the flour/butter mixture and gently toss and stir with a dinner fork just until the pieces start to hold together. Proceed as above.

*Replace a few tablespoons of butter with chilled lard or Crisco for a lighter crust.

March 10, 2010: Pecan Pie

I am on another sweet streak. Part of the reason for this is: I am withholding all the recipes that I love that should wait for summertime. Why should we be using hothouse tomatoes or corn imported from the other side of the equator when we can get them locally when they're in season? And, while outdoor grilling is possible throughout the year in SoCal, many folks live in climates that aren't barbecue-friendly in March. I'm trying to remain patient by reminding myself that -- Summer cuisine is just around the corner!

Back to sweet pleasures: this pecan pie is out of this world! Well, I suppose any pecan pie is out of this world. It's so simple to make. The only other thing you need to do is to whip up some heavy cream; it's the perfect topping to cut through the sweet density of this pie.

PECAN PIE

1 single unbaked flaky pie crust (don't use a crumb crust!)
4 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup light corn syrup
1/2 T flour
1/4 t sea salt
1 t vanilla extract
1/4 cup butter, melted
2 cups pecan halves
Whipped cream, for serving

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

Line a 9-inch pie plate, or fluted tart pan, with the pie crust. Refrigerate while making the filling. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the sugar, corn syrup, flour, salt, vanilla extract, and butter. Fold in the pecans. Pour the filling into the unbaked pie shell. Bake for 50 minutes, or until the center of the filing is set. Cool pie completely on a wire rack. Chill. Cut into wedges and serve with whipped cream.

*For extra decadence, sprinkle the bottom of the crust with about 1/2 cup chopped dark chocolate before pouring in the pecan filling. Mmmmmm!

March 9, 2010: Key Lime Pie

Key Lime Pie has become part of the American dessert vernacular. A native of Florida, it is sweet (and I mean sweet!), citrus-y sunshine emanating from a crumbly graham cracker crust. When Key Limes are in season, you can squeeze the juice yourself. However, this lime variety is tiny, so the job is a bit tedious. Some stores carry reconstituted key lime juice which is almost as good as fresh. If you can't get the real deal, ordinary limes will suffice.

KEY LIME PIE

1 graham cracker crust, pre-baked
4 eggs yolks
1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
1/3 cup key lime juice
Freshly whipped cream, for serving

Pre-heat your oven to 350 degrees F.

In a medium bowl, beat together the egg yolks, sweetened condensed milk and the lime juice. Pour the filling into the baked pie shell and bake for about 12 minutes. Cool on a rack. Then, chill in your refrigerator before serving (with a good dollop of whipped cream!).

*If you'd like, you can top the pie with a meringue made from the unused egg whites:

Meringue

4 egg whites
Pinch of sea salt
Pinch of cream of tartar
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar

Beat the egg whites with the salt and cream of tartar until foamy. Keep beating, gradually adding the sugar, until the mixture is shiny and holds fairly stiff peaks. Cover the baked pie with the meringue, spreading it all the way to the edges of the crust. Bake in a 35o degree F. oven until lightly browned. Cool on rack, then refrigerate before serving.

March 8, 2010: Graham Cracker Crust

Every home baker should have a fantastic recipe for a graham cracker crust. It is the easiest type of crust to make and this is the one I like best. It is wonderful for cream pies, Key Lime pie and cheesecakes. I usually like to add a bit of ground cinnamon to the recipe. Other types of cookies, such as chocolate wafers, Nilla wafers or gingersnaps, can be substituted for the graham crackers.

GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST

6 T unsalted butter, melted
1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs
3 T sugar
1/4 to 1/2 t ground cinnamon, optional

Put all the ingredients in a medium-sized mixing bowl and combine with a rubber spatula until well blended. Press the crumb mixture evenly into the bottom and sides of a 9-inch pie plate. To pre-bake, the crust, heat your oven to 350 degrees F. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, just until it begins to brown. Cook on a rack. The crust will harden as it cools.

*You can buy ready-made graham cracker crumbs or you can make your own. Place about 1 1/2 cups of broken crackers into your food processor with the sugar. Process until you get fine crumbs. Or, to do it the old-fashioned way, place the crumbs in a paper bag and crush the crackers with a rolling pin, rolling it back and forth until you get your fine crumbs.

*NB: Crumb crusts are not always interchangeable with flaky crusts, such as for pies made with fresh fruit.

March 7, 2010: Bulgur Salad with Lentils

Eating a slice of whole-wheat bread is not the only way to get whole grains into your diet. Bulgur, a staple in Middle Eastern cookery, is a very wholesome alternative with a pleasing nutty flavor and light texture. It's a fantastic foundation for salads; tabouleh, in fact, is perhaps the most famous of all bulgur salads. Loaded with parsley and laced with olive oil and lemon juice, the bulgur, however, takes a back seat to the other ingredients. Not so in this salad which I adapted from a recipe I recently found in the New York Times "Recipes for Health" column. I like the addition of lentils for even greater nutritional value.

BULGUR SALAD WITH LENTILS

1 cup green lentils
1 small onion, cut in half
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed slightly
1 bay leaf
Sea salt, to taste
1 cup fine or medium bulgur
4 scallions, thinly sliced
2 ribs celery, diced
1 cup chopped parsley
4 T chopped fresh mint
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1 t toasted cumin seeds, ground
2 T capers
1/2 cup olive oil

Combine the lentils, onion, garlic, salt, and bay leaf in a saucepan. Cover with water by a couple of inches. Bring to a gentle boil, reduce heat and simmer for about 25 minutes, until lentils are tender but not mushy. When done, drain and discard the onion, bay leaf and garlic.Meanwhile, put the bulgur in a medium bowl with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover with boiling water and let stand 25 minutes until most of the water is absorbed. Drain through a mesh strainer and squeeze out the excess water. In a large bowl, gently toss together the cooked lentils, bulgur, scallions, celery, parsley, mint, lemon juice, cumin, capers, and olive oil.

*This is easy to pack for a brown bag lunch to take to school or work.

*Top with crumbled feta to add a serving of protein.

March 6, 2010: Hungarian Goulash

Goulash is the national dish of Hungary, although other countries in that geographical regions have their own variations. We fondly remember Aunt Alice's Slovak version. Whenever we flew out from Los Angeles to visit her in Chicago, she always had a goulash ready to serve on our first night. It was especially delicious in wintertime, when the temperature was sub-freezing and it was dark outside. Such a cozy memory.

Quite simply, goulash is a shepherd's soup or stew comprised of beef, paprika and onions. This version also includes the fragrant bouquet of tomatoes, red bell pepper, hot pale-green Italian frying peppers, garlic, and caraway seeds. The addition of egg noodles at end of the cooking gives the dish body and makes it a one-pot meal.

HUNGARIAN GOULASH

1 T bacon fat (or oil or butter/ghee)
1 large onion, chopped
1 T minced garlic
2 T sweet paprika (imported Hungarian is recommended)
1/2 t caraway seeds
2 pounds rump roast, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 medium parsnip, peeled and chopped
4 cups beef stock
2 pale-green Italian frying peppers, cut into 1-inch slices
1 red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
4 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
Sea salt, to taste
4 ounces wide egg noodles

Melt the bacon grease (or oil/butter) in a large, heavy casserole. Add the onions and saute for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute for another 5 minutes. Stir in the paprika and caraway seeds. Add the beef, parsnip and stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 1 1/2 hours. Add the peppers, potatoes and tomatoes. Cook on medium heat for another 30 minutes. Stir in the egg noodles and cook for another 10 minutes, or until the noodles are tender.

*How do you peel a tomato? I didn't know the first time the task was before me, that's for sure! I was making spaghetti sauce, hoping to impress my future mother-in-law because I was using fresh tomatoes instead of canned. It was a messy ordeal but I succeeded in garnering Toodie's respect. Years later, I learned a trick of the trade, which I'll now share with you. Bring a pot of water to the boil; drop the tomatoes into the hot water; remove from the heat; let the tomatoes stand in the hot water for 14 seconds (or more if the tomatoes aren't quite ripe); drain; the skins should easily slip off.

March 5, 2010: Challah

The first time I baked challah was for a bread pudding recipe. I knew the origin was Jewish but didn't know how steeped in ritual and tradition it was. According to Jewish tradition, challah is served during the Sabbath and holidays as dictated by the Bible. I think this wonderful braided loaf is delicious any day of the year! It's not only wonderful in bread pudding, it is marvelous toasted and spread with sweet butter and your favorite jam or as the foundation of your favorite sandwich. My girls made many requests for me to make challah, especially looking forward to devouring a slice or two soon after the loaves were out of the oven.

In order for this recipe to be pareve, that is a food that can be eaten indiscriminately with both meat or dairy dishes as according to Jewish dietary laws, you will have to substitute the butter with margarine or vegetable oil.

CHALLAH
2 loaves

Dough
1 package dry yeast
1 cup warm water
Pinch of sugar
5 cups of flour, approximately
2 T sugar
1 1/2 t sea salt
1/3 cup butter, room temperature (or margarine or vegetable oil)
1 pinch saffron
3 eggs + 1 egg white, room temperature (reserve yolk for glaze, below)

Glaze
1 egg yolk
2 T sugar
1 t water
Poppy seeds

In the large bowl of your electric mixer, sprinkle the yeast and pinch of sugar over the warm water. Stir to activate. When bubbly, beat in 3 cups of flour with the sugar, salt, butter, saffron, and 3 eggs, and egg white. Beat for about 2 minutes. Gradually beat in the remaining flour. Knead with your dough hook for about 6 minutes (or turn onto a floured surface to knead by hand, about 8 minutes) until the dough is smooth and elastic. Place the dough into a clean large glass or ceramic bowl that has been oiled. Cover the bowl with plastic paper and a towel. Put it in a warm, draft-free place to rise until it is double in bulk, about 1 hour. Punch the dough down and knead out the bubbles. Divide in half and let rest for 5 minutes. Divide each half into thirds and roll each third into a 12-inch rope. Form each loaf by braiding 3 ropes together and pinching the ends securely together. Place the loaves on a oiled baking sheet. Prepare the glaze: mix together the egg yolk, sugar and water and brush on the challah. Sprinkle with poppy seeds. This time, let the loaves rise uncovered uncovered, until double in bulk. Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 400 degrees F. When risen, bake the challah for about 30 minutes, until a wooden toothpick comes out clean and dry. Remove from oven and carefully place on wire racks to cool.

March 4, 2010: Dill Bread

When I catered, it was my pleasure to serve home baked bread. Dill Bread was one of the favorites. When baking it, the aroma emanating from the oven and wafting through the house is especially mesmerizing. It must be the dill weed and the onion make it so alluring. The original recipe calls for baking it in a casserole dish; I prefer to use metal loaf pans.

DILL BREAD
Makes 3 loaves

2 package dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water
2 cup cottage cheese, room temperature
4 T sugar
2 T dried onion bits
4 t dill weed
2 t sea salt
1/2 t baking soda
2 eggs, room temperature
4 1/2 to 5 cups flour
1 egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water
Poppy seeds

Pour the warm water into the bowl of your electric mixer. Sprinkle the yeast over the water with a pinch of sugar. Stir briskly with a fork or small whisk to hasten the action. When bubbly, mix in the cottage cheese, sugar, onion bits, dill weed, sea salt, and egg. On low speed, gradually beat in the flour. The mixture will be sticky. Scrape into an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and a towel and let rise in a warm place until double, about one hour. Remove plastic wrap and turn dough out onto a floured surface. Divide into thirds. Gently form each portion into a loaf and place in a buttered 8 1/2 by 4 1/2 loaf pan. Cover with a towel and let rise in a warm place until double, about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 350 degrees F. When risen, very lightly brush the top of each loaf with the egg wash and sprinkle with poppy seeds. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until brown. Turn out onto a wire rack to cool.

*You can also make Dill Muffins: divide the dough into 24 pieces, form into balls and place in a muffin tins. Baking time will be reduced -- maybe to 25 to 30 minutes.

March 3, 2010: 72 Market Street Meatloaf

I was hunting for new catering ideas when I found this recipe in "The New Basics Cookbook," written by the Silver Palette's founders Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. Hollywood stars, Tony Bill and Dudley Moore, opened 72 Market Street in Venice, CA in the Eighties bringing sophisticated and updated versions of American fare to an upscale and glittery clientele. When they asked their chef to create a meatloaf to add to the menu, it seems they were at the cusp of the comfort food trend we are experiencing today; think Mac 'n Cheese and cupcakes! Market Street Meatloaf is more complex than most versions our moms made back in the day. (The cumin lends a hint of the Southwest.) But, it is worth every ounce of effort!. (My catering clients were kind of lucky, though; all they had to do is order it from my Karen's Kitchen frozen dinners menu and reheat it.)

Today, the restaurant and Karen's Kitchen Catering have shuttered, but you can still savor a superb 72 Market Street Meatloaf by preparing it in your own kitchen.

MARKET STREET MEATLOAF
From "The New Basics Cookbook" by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins

3 T ghee (or unsalted butter)
3/4 cup minced onion
3/4 cup minced scallions
1/2 cup minced carrots
1/4 cup minced celery
1/2 cup minced red bell pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
3 eggs
1/2 cup ketchup
1/2 cup half and half
Sea salt, to taste
1 t freshly ground black pepper
1/2 t ground white pepper
1/4 t cayenne pepper
1 t ground cumin
1/2 t freshly grated nutmeg
2 pounds lean ground beef chuck
12 ounces sausage meat (not fennel-flavored Italian sausage)
3/4 cup fine fresh bread crumbs

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.

Melt the ghee (or butter) in a large, heavy skillet. Add the onions, scallions, carrots, celery, bell pepper, and garlic. Saute, stirring often, until the vegetables have softened. Set aside. Beat the eggs in a large mixing bowl. Beat in the ketchup, half and half, and the spices. Add the chuck, sausage, bread crumbs, and the cooled vegetables. Combine the ingredients with your hands until thoroughly blended. With damp hands, form the mixture into a loaf and place in a buttered baking dish. Place the dish inside a larger dish, pouring boiling water into the larger pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until the juices run clear when the loaf is pricked. Remove the baking dish from the larger pan and let it rest 20 minutes before slicing.

*Garlic-mashed potatoes or orange-maple mashed yams are perfect accompaniments. Add a steamed green vegetable, like asparagus or broccoli, for a delicious homemade blue-plate special.

March 2, 2010: Snickerdoodles

Snickerdoodles are an all-around favorite. They are unfancy sugar cookies that have been rolled in cinnamon sugar before baking. Every bite melts in your mouth. Funny, before I ever discovered snickerdoodles I learned of snickerpoodles on Two Dog Cafe, a pet-focused cooking show on the Food Network. Crazy...

SNICKERDOODLES

1 cup unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 eggs
1 t vanilla extract
2 3/4 cups flour
1 t baking soda
1/2 t sea salt
2 t cream of tartar
1 T sugar
1 T ground cinnamon

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F.

In the medium bowl of your electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, scraping the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula to ensure the mixture is thoroughly blended. Beat in the vanilla. On low speed, add one cup of the flour with the baking soda, salt and cream of tartar. Gradually add the rest of the flour, stirring until thoroughly blended. Combine one tablespoon each of sugar and cinnamon in a small mixing bowl. Shape the dough into 1-inch balls, roll in the sugar-cinnamon mixture and place 2 inches apart on cookie sheets lined with parchment paper (or a buttered cookie sheet). Bake the cookies for 6 minutes or until lightly browned. If needed, change the position of the cookie sheets from top to bottom, back to front, midway through the baking to ensure even results. Remove to a wire rack to cool. Store in an air-tight container. Makes about 4 dozen snickerdoodles.

March 1, 2010: Egyptian Red Lentil Soup

Update: I made the Fennel Vichyssoise (February 17, 2010) over the weekend and I have to report it is simply delicious. The fennel adds a subtle shade of flavor and interest that complement the classic ingredients. For the stock, I used freshly-made Mock Chicken Stock (February 16, 2010). (Another excellent report.) Finally, I passed the finished soup through my food mill to achieve a smooth and velvety texture.

What I love about having homemade soup in the refrigerator is how marvelously easy it is to get ready. After a long and busy day at work (or play), all you need to do is reheat it, preferably o the stove. A warm bowl of soup is a classic way to soothe the soul into a restful evening and, hopefully, sweet dreams. This Egyptian-inspired soup, filled with the nutritional benefits of lentils and turmeric, was created by the chefs at the Moosewood Restaurant.

EGYPTIAN RED LENTIL SOUP

From "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special"

5 cups water
1 cup dried red lentils
2 cups chopped onions
2 cups chopped potatoes
8 cloves garlic, peeled
1 T ghee or olive oil
2 t ground cumin
1/2 t turmeric
1 t sea salt
1/2 chopped cilantro
3 T fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Combine the water, lentils, onions, potatoes, and garlic in a soup pot. Cover, bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the ingredients are tender. Remove from the heat. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, heat the ghee or olive oil. Add the cumin, turmeric and salt; cook, stirring, until the cumin releases its flavor, about 2 minutes. Let it cool for a minute, then add it to the soup pot with the cilantro . Working in batches, puree the ingredients in your blender or food processor. Add the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Gently reheat the soup before serving.

February 28, 2010: Lemony Cream Cheese Squares

I can tell my sweet tooth is waking up whenever I write about sweets. Alas, today is such a day and Lemony Cream Cheese Squares are on my mind. These bar cookies have a cream cheese topping and resemble snack-size cheesecakes. I served them on many a dessert table during my catering days. They are another jewel from Maida Heatter's "Book of Great Cookies".

LEMONY CREAM CHEESE SQUARES
From Maida Heatter's "Book of Great Cookies"

5 1/3 T butter
1/3 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup flour
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
Finely grated rind of 1 lemon
1 T lemon juice
8 ounces cream cheese, preferably at room temperature
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 t vanilla extract
1 egg

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F. Butter an 8-inch square brownie pan.

Place the butter, brown sugar, flour, and walnuts into the bowl of your food processor. Process by pulsing until the mixture is crumbly. Reserve 1 cup and evenly distribute the rest over the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, place the cream cheese in a medium bowl and beat until softened and smooth. Add the sugar and beat well. Add the vanilla and egg and beat to mix well. Add the lemon rind and lemon juice. Pour over the baked crust, Carefully sprinkle the reserved crumbs evenly over the filling. Bake for 25 minutes. Cool the cake in its pan to room temperature. Refrigerate for at least an hour. With a small, sharp knife cut around the sides to release. Cut the cake into quarters. With a wide metal spatula transfer the quarters to a cutting board, then cut each quarter into quarters. Store in an air-tight in the refrigerator or freezer. (Squares may be served directly from the freezer.)

February 27, 2010: Mango Chutney

Chutneys are pickled condiments, matching fruits or vegetables with spices, that originated in India. Beginning in the 16th century, they were exported to England and Europe and thereby introduced into their cuisines. One of the lasting remnants of this history is the well-known Major Grey's brand, a spicy mango and ginger concoction. Chutney is particularly easy to make in your own kitchen; I suggest you import it into your own repertoire.

MANGO CHUTNEY

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh ginger
3 cloves garlic
3 small dried red chilies, seeds removed, coarsely chopped
1 1/2 cups malt vinegar
1 cup sugar
2 ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted and cut into 1/2 inch cubes

Combine the ginger, garlic, chilies, and 2d tablespoons of malt vinegar in your food processor. Process until finely chopped. Transfer to a small heavy non-reactive saucepan. Add the remaining vinegar and sugar. Bring to a boil. Reduce and simmer until thickened and syrupy, about 25 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the mangoes. Pour into a glass jar. Store in the refrigerator.

February 26, 2010: Baked Macadamia-Crusted Halibut with Coconut Sauce

Macadamia-crusted halibut seems to have made a sudden appearance on every yuppie restaurant menu. I first encountered in it in Sheila Lukins "U.S.A. Cookbook" while trawling for new ideas. I served it for an executive lunch and it became an instant favorite. It's no wonder it's so popular with restaurants. You would want to save this for special occasions as this recipe has some rich embellishments.

MACADAMIA-CRUSTED HALIBUT WITH COCONUT SAUCE
From Sheila Lukins "U.S.A. Cookbook"

Coconut Curry Sauce
2 T peanut oil
3 T red curry paste
3 cups coconut milk
Sea salt, to taste

Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring to dissolve, for about 1 minute. Add the coconut milk and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the mixture has reduced in half, about 25 minutes. Season with salt, to taste. Keep warm.

Halibut
1 cup flour
2 large eggs
1/8 t cayenne
1/2 pound macadamia nuts, very finely chopped
1 pound fresh halibut, cut into 4 fillets
1/4 cup melted butter
Mango chutney
2 T chopped fresh cilantro

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.

Place the flour in a bowl or pie plate. Whisk the eggs and the cayenne in another plate. Place the nuts in another pie plate. Dredge the halibut in the flour, dip in the egg mixture, then dredge them in the chopped nuts. Place on a lightly buttered baking dish. Drizzle each fillet with a tablespoon of melted butter. Bake in the center of the oven for 10 to 15 minutes. To serve: spoon some of the coconut sauce onto a plate, lay a fillet on top of the sauce, garnish with a tablespoon of chutney, and sprinkle with chopped cilantro.

February 25, 2010: Potato Gnocchi

I had read many descriptions of gnocchi from cookbooks and food magazines that were so alluring that I thought, "This is something I want to have some day." I finally experienced these delicate, plump, potato pillows at Angeli Cafe on Melrose in West Hollywood. They were light as a feather and simple in composition; bathed simply in butter and dusted with parmigiano, each mouthful was an event.

It took me years to attempt to make gnocchi from scratch at home. Although I routinely cranked out my own pasta dough, I felt daunted by these sublime Italian wonders. They seemed too impossibly perfect to recreate. I finally got over the fear and, after a rubbery outcome or two, I finally got the knack one evening with my daughter, Ingrid, as sous chef and cheerleader.

POTATO GNOCCHI WITH BUTTER AND PARMIGIANO

1 pound potatoes, scrubbed clean
Pinch of Sea Salt
1 egg yolk
3/4 cup flour
2 t olive oil
4 T butter
Freshly grated parmigiano reggiano
Minced fresh parsley or snipped chives

Place the potatoes in a saucepan with water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender. Drain; let potatoes stand until they are cool enough to handle. Peel and cut them into chunks. Pass the chunks through a potato ricer or food mill. Transfer to a lightly floured surface. Make a well in the middle where you will put the egg yolk. Slowly work the flour into the potatoes until the mixture forms a smooth, slightly sticky dough. Divide the dough into quarters. Roll each into a rope, about 15 inches long and 3/4 inch in diameter. Using a floured knife, cut each rope into 30 pieces. Indent each gnocchi on one side with the tines of a floured fork. Place in a single layer on a lightly floured cookie sheet. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a few pinches of salt and the olive oil. Drop the gnocchi into the boiling water. When they rise to surface, let them cook about another 10 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon or drain in a colander. Melt the butter in a large skillet. Add the cooked gnocchi and gently toss them in the butter. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Serve sprinkled with freshly grated parmigiano reggiano and parsley/chives.

*Fresh gnocchi can be frozen very successfully. Place them in a single layer on a floured cookie sheet then put them in the freezer. When frozen, place in a ziploc bag. Cooking instructions are identical as fresh gnocchi.

*Gnocchi is a suitable blank canvas for a diverse spectrum of sauces and flavors. Tonight, I served gnocchi with ragu (sauce bolognese). Mmmmmmm.

*This basic gnocchi dough can be enhanced with other flavors, such as spinach, herbs and sweet potato with sage.

February 24, 2010: Laurie's Raisin-Oatmeal Cookies

It was many years ago this recipe was given to me by my best friend, Laurie. I remember batches of oatmeal cookies stored in the blue and white antique soup tureen on the pine sideboard in her Mom's dining room. They were irresistible then, and they're still irresistible today. Just this morning, (like 40 years later) I baked a few dozen for our after-school pizza fund-raiser. There was nary a crumb left for a sparrow to nibble on!

I love the hybrid texture of these cookies: they're simultaneously crunchy and chewy. For today's dough I used old-fashioned oats in lieu of quick oats and had excellent results. Another change I made is using golden sultanas instead of dark raisins. Other than that, the recipe maintains the excellent vintage of the original.

LAURIE'S RAISIN-OATMEAL COOKIES

3/4 cup butter
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup white sugar
1 egg
1/4 t lemon juice
1 cup flour
1/2 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
1 t cinnamon
1 cup oats
1 cup golden sultanas


Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.

In a medium mixing bowl, cream the butter with the sugars. Beat in the egg and lemon juice. On low speed, add the flour, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. When thoroughly blended, stir in the oats and sultanas. Drop by tablespoonfuls onto cookie sheets lined with parchment paper, at least 1 inch apart. Bake for 8 minutes, then move the sheets from top to bottom and from left to right. Bake for another 7 minutes. Carefully remove cookies from sheets with a metal spatula to a wire rack to cool. Store in an air-tight container. Makes about 3 dozen.

*I have switched from greasing my baking sheets to using baker's parchment paper. The paper can be used over and over and your cookie sheets stay cleaner. In my experience, there even seems to be a lesser chance for cookies stubbornly sticking when you use parchment. I was first introduced to this method when I worked at a small, independent bakery on Sunset Boulevard, shortly after moving to California in 1974. However, I didn't adopt it until relatively recently. I don't know why it took me so long!

*A cute gift idea is to fill a plastic Ziploc bag with frozen unbaked cookie dough that has been portioned out. Then, put the bag in a decorative container (such as a tin, Chinese take-out box or gift bag) with baking instructions. This was given to me by a student for Christmas this year. His sweet mom said, "Everyone needs a freshly baked cookie every now and then." When the urge hits, take one or two balls of dough out of the freezer, pop them into the toaster oven and in a matter of minutes your fresh-baked treat is ready!

February 23, 2010: Lemon-Vanilla Cheesecake

I grew up in New York City where cheesecake was once the king of desserts. Nowadays, cupcakes and macaroons have sidled into number one positions. I still remember my first glorious bite of the heavenly cheesecake that the Brass Rail restaurant made famous. I was a teenager and it was unlike any kind of cake I had ever experienced for certainly wasn't in my family's culinary vocabulary. For quite awhile, it was my favorite dessert order. And, I can't tell you how many cheesecakes I baked during my catering career!

There are myriad variations of cheesecake, savory as well as sweet. The following recipe is exceptional just as is; but don't be afraid to put your imagination to work. I once made an English toffee version. Imagine....

LEMON-VANILLA CHEESECAKE
From Maida Heatter's "Book of Great Desserts"

2 pounds cream cheese
1 1/2 cups sugar
4 eggs
1 t vanilla extract
3 T fresh lemon juice
1 T grated lemon rind
1/3 cup graham cracker crumbs

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

In the bowl of your electric mixer, beat the cream cheese with the sugar until smooth and light. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well and scraping the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula after each addition. On low speed, ad the vanilla extract, lemon juice and grated lemon rind. Pour into a greased 8-inch round metal pan that is 3 inches deep. Put the pan into a larger pan and pour in hot water to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Place in the bottom third of the oven. Bake for 1 1/2 hours. Lift the cheesecake out of the water and cool completely. Invert onto a plate covered with oiled waxed paper. Spoon the graham cracker crumbs evenly over the bottom of the cake. Invert again onto your serving plate. Refrigerate 6 hours before serving.

*Fresh berries or lingonberry preserves are excellent garnishes to serve with this cheesecake.

February 22, 2010: Shepherd's Pie

Shepherd's Pie most likely came about as a thrifty way to use the leftovers from Sunday dinner. What the British created was the quintessential leftover masterpiece. Traditionally made with cooked roast lamb, you can substitute cooked fresh ground lamb with satisfactory results. I served it regularly in my days as chef of an executive dining room; the English-born CEO was especially appreciative. The following recipe is from one of Craig Claiborne's New York Times compilations.

SHEPHERD'S PIE
From "The New York Times Cookbook" 1990 Revised Edition

1 pound cooked roast lamb, cut up into 1/4-inch pieces
OR
1 1/2 pounds ground lamb, cooked and drained of fat
2 T butter
1 cup onions, finely chopped
1/2 cup carrots, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 cup celery, finely chopped
2 T fresh parsley, minced
3 T flour
2 T tomato paste
1/2 cup white wine or stock
1 1/2 cups stock
1 t Worcestershire sauce
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 cup steamed fresh corn kernels (or frozen)
2 or more cups mashed potatoes
1/2 cup shredded Gruyere cheese
Additional minced fresh parsley, for garnish

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and parsley. Cook, stirring, until the onions have softened. Sprinkle the vegetables with the flour. Rapidly whisk in the tomato paste, wine, stock, and Worcestershire sauce. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the pepper and cooked meat. Simmer an additional 5 minutes. Pour the meat mixture into a buttered casserole. Gently and evenly spread the mashed potatoes on top; sprinkle with grated Gruyere. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes, until the casserole is piping hot and the cheese is melted. Sprinkle with additional minced parsley before serving.

*Tip! When preparing the mashed potatoes for Shepherd's Pie, I usually add a little more liquid to lighten them slightly thereby making the mixture easier to spread.

*Tip! If you are using fresh lamb, cook it in the same saucepan (or skillet) that you're going to use for the rest of the recipe. Note: Remember to drain the fat before proceeding with the rest of the recipe!

*Try ground turkey in place of the lamb.

February 21, 2010: Maple Yam Mash

First order of business: I braised the boeuf en daube that I was marinating since yesterday (February 21, 2010). The meat was indeed tender and delicately infused with the red wine, garlic, onions, carrots, and thyme. However, the overall dish didn't appeal to me; I didn't like the thin sauce. Instead of reducing the liquid over high heat, as Mark Bittman wrote, I whisked in a buerre manie made from 2 tablespoons each of clarified butter (ghee) and flour, then cooked it over medium high heat until the sauce was nicely thickened. It improved the daube but I prefer the complexity of flavors in the sauces of other stews, such as boeuf bourgignon or Hungarian goulash.

Back to today: To accompany the daube, I made fresh egg noodles, steamed farm-fresh broccoli and brilliant orange mashed yams. I actually prepared only one enormous yam which was enough for three servings. Yams and sweet potatoes are often confused with each other. In fact, they belong to entirely different plant families. Sweet potatoes are distantly related to the potato whereas yams are from the genus dioscorea. They high in vitamin C, dietary fiber and potassium. Plus, yams contain less starch than the sweet potato thereby giving them a lighter texture.

MAPLE YAM MASH

Yams, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
Butter or ghee
Natural maple syrup
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg

Place the prepared yams into a pot; cover with salted water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, or until yams are tender. Add a tablespoon or so of butter and maple syrup to every 2 cups of yams (or to taste). Mash until smooth. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, to taste.

*By all means, sweet potatoes can be substituted for yams in this recipe. Just keep in mind they are starchier and drier so you may want to add a little liquid , such as freshly squeezed orange juice.

February 20, 2010: Boeuf en Daube

Today I fell for the special Whole Foods had on grass-fed chuck roasts. By the time I got my fine roast home, its fate was sealed: I was cutting it up for daube. Boeuf en daube is simply beef stew a la francaise. The meat is marinated in red wine, vegetables and seasonings for up to a day. (This tenderizes and infuses the meat with flavor.) Then, it is slowly braised in a heavy casserole, or daubiere as it is called in France. I love the simplicity of this recipe from Mark Bittman's "How to Cook Everything". Serve it with a fresh green vegetable and steamed or mashed potatoes.

BOEUF EN DAUBE
From Mark Bittman's "How to Cook Everything"

8 cloves garlic
2 1/2 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes
1 onion, chopped
1 large or 2 small carrot(s), peeled and sliced
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 T vinegar
1 cup red wine
1/2 t fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
Chopped parsley

Peel and mince 6 cloves of the garlic. Combine in a non-reactive bowl with the rest of the ingredients, except for the parsley and 2 reserved garlic cloves. Cover, refrigerate and marinate beef up to 24 hours.

Place the meat and marinade ingredients into a heavy, covered casserole. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and cover. Simmer gently 1 to1 1/2 hours, until the meat is tender. Uncover the casserole, raise the heat and boil to reduce it slightly, if necessary. Peel and mince the reserved cloves of garlic. Add to the daube and simmer for another 5 minutes. Check the seasonings, adding salt or pepper as necessary. Sprinkle with chopped parsley before serving.

*My daube is currently in the marinating stage. It is with great anticipation I think about the tempting aroma that will fill the kitchen once it starts simmering on the stove. Before that, though, I go to the farmers' market to pick up a delectable and super fresh vegetable. Hmmmm, I still have a loaf of Julia's french bread waiting in the freezer that I made for our New Year's Eve gruyere fondue. Boy, some people have it good!

*Other starches to consider serving with daube are creamy polenta, spaetzle or egg noodles.

February 19, 2010: Brussels Sprouts Sauteed with Indian Spices

I had chicken marinating in lemon juice, garlic and rosemary to put on the grill for dinner and needed to come up with a vegetable. Remembering there were brussels sprouts in the fridge, I consulted Alice Waters' "Chez Panisse Vegetables" cookbook for inspiration. I zeroed in on a recipe for a spicy broccoli saute with Indian spices. I adapted it to ingredients I had on hand and the result was delicious.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTEED WITH INDIAN SPICES

1 pound brussels sprouts
2 T ghee
2 rounds of fresh ginger, minced
1/2 t cumin seed
1 t mustard seed
1/4 t turmeric
1 small onion, chopped
Applewood-smoked sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
Water, as needed

Clean the brussels sprouts. With a sharp knife, slice off the bottom of the stem end. Pull off any damaged leaves. Quarter each brussels sprout lengthwise. Melt the ghee in a heavy pot. Add the ginger, cumin seed, mustard seed, and turmeric. Gently saute until the mustard seeds start to pop. (This brings out the flavors of the spices.) Stir in the onion and saute until they are softened. Add the brussels sprouts, stirring the coat them with the seasonings. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons of water to the pot, cover and steam the brussels sprouts for about ten minutes, or to desired tenderness. Lift the cover occasionally to stir the ingredients and to add more water, if needed.

*You don't have to use smoked salt; unflavored salt will be absolutely fine. I discovered the delights of smoked salt this summer. I had a jar of applewood-smoked salt in my spice cupboard so I used it in this dish. I found it added a subtle grace note of flavor to the rest of the seasonings.

February 18, 2010: Roast Rack of Lamb with Lemon, Mustard and Herbs

I was drawing a blank on what to write about... until it dawned on me that today it's Laurie's birthday! (Laurie is my dearest friend ever!) I remember one of her birthday celebrations from our teenage years. It was a family affair. We were seated around the elegant antique pine table -- the one with the built-in lazy susan -- in her mother's dining room in Jamaica, NY and savoring one of Laurie's favorite meals: a splendid leg of lamb with all the trimmings. (The birthday cake was from a local bakery, whose name escapes me. You know, it's the kind with the totally decadent sugary flowers. A tradition-bound indulgence, reserved for special family occasions.) I was rather impressed by my friend's sophisticated palette; lamb was not on my Top Ten list at the time. But, Laurie definitely became an influence in expanding my culinary horizons... among many other adventures.

So, in honor of Laurie, I'm sharing this recipe for a succulent rack of rosy lamb. It may not be the roast her mother so memorably served, but I think it would fit the bill. The marinade brilliantly complements the lusty flavor of the meat. You can use a single herb or a create a bouquet of flavors. The mustard helps maintain the juiciness of the meat.

Happy Birthday Lovely Laurie!

ROAST RACK OF LAMB WITH LEMON, MUSTARD AND HERB

Lemon, Mustard & Herb Marinade
2 cloves garlic, pressed
1/2 t sea salt
1 T soy sauce or Bragg's Amino Acids
Chopped fresh herbs, such as rosemary, thyme, chives and/or oregano
2 T lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl.


2 racks of lamb, trimmed
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs
2 T melted butter, optional

Brush the marinade on the trimmed racks of lamb. Place in a glass dish, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to one day in advance.

Preheat oven to 500 degrees F. Set the rack to upper middle level of your oven. Place the lamb in a metal roasting pan, then roast for 10 minutes at 500 degrees to sear the meat. Reduce the temperature to 400 degrees F. Open the oven and quickly spread the bread crumbs over the tops of the racks and drizzle with the optional butter. Return to the oven and roast for 20 minutes, or until an internal meat thermometer measures 125 degrees F. The meat should be a nice rosy pink color. Let the roasts rest for 5 minutes before carving into individual ribs.

*Lentil salad and and parboiled fresh asparagus spears are nice accompaniments for lamb and make a lovely springtime dinner.*For a summertime menu, you could marinate individual chops and grill the lamb. Serve with grilled vegetables or ratatouille with bulgur salad.

*If you're having a small dinner party, an elegant touch would be to carve the rack of lamb at table.

*The marinade is equally marvelous for steaks, chicken and seafood.

February 17, 2010: Fennel Vichyssoise

Vichyssoise is an elegant French classic. A pureed soup made with potatoes, leeks and cream, it is the ultimate in comfort food. However, it's loaded with a richness that could be heart-stopping and waist-thickening. Fennel Vichyssoise (another winning recipe from the "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special" cookbook) is a leaner alternative with an elegance all its own. The potato and leek base is made lighter by the fennel -- which also imparts a lovely anise flavor. The soup is further lightened by replacing the cream with low fat milk. Serve this as a first course at your next dinner party or for a simple dinner with a salad and freshly baked whole wheat bread.

FENNEL VICHYSSOISE
From "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special"

3 cups chopped potatoes
2 cups vegetable, chicken stock or Mock Chicken Stock (February 16)
1 T fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 cups chopped leeks, white parts only
2 t olive oil or ghee
4 garlic cloves, pressed
2 1/4 cups fresh fennel bulbs, chopped
1/2 cup parsnips, peeled and chopped
1 T white wine
1 t sea salt
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
1/2 t ground fennel seeds
1/2 cup fresh parsley, finely minced
3 cups low fat milk
Fresh chives, snipped

In a medium saucepan, combine the potatoes, stock and lemon juice. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a soup pot, saute the leeks in the oil or ghee, stirring, until softened. Add the garlic, fennel, parsnips, and wine. Cover the pot and cook for 5 or 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the salt, pepper, ground fennel, and parsley. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes to the soup pot; stir in the milk. In batches, puree the soup in your blender or food processor, until smooth and creamy. If desired, put the soup through a food mill for an extra-smooth and velvety texture. Serve hot or chilled. Ladle into soup bowls and sprinkle with snipped chives.

February 16, 2010: "Mock" Chicken Stock (vegetarian)

Homemade stock is the best choice when making a pot of soup. You have control over the quality and variety of ingredients that go into it and you benefit from it being fresh (the fresher, the better!) and free of extraneous chemicals. Chicken stock has a unique richness that is an excellent foundation for many soups. The good news for vegetarians is they don't have to be left out because of this fine (and easy!) recipe from the "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special" cookbook. Turmeric lends a yellow tone to the stock, making "Mock Chicken Stock" reminiscent of the real thing.

"MOCK" CHICKEN STOCK
From "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special"

14 cups water
7 cups onions, chopped
4 cups celery, chopped
4 cups carrots, peeled and chopped
4 potatoes, scrubbed and chopped
2 heads of garlic, separated into cloves (there is no need to peel the cloves)
5 bay leaves
1 1/2 t dried thyme or a small bunch of fresh thyme
1 1/2 t turmeric
1/2 t sea salt, or to taste
1/2 bunch fresh parsley, rinsed

Put the water into a large stockpot; add the rest of the ingredients. Bring to a boil and cook, uncovered for 15 minutes. Then, cover the pot, turn the heat to low and simmer the stock for one hour. Set aside to cool; strain. Use immediately, store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or freeze up to 6 months.d

*You don't have to be fussy about how neatly the vegetables are prepped. Coarse chopping will do!

*I'm going to make this over the weekend and will substitute 2 cups of parsnips for 2 cups of the carrots. I'll report back to you.

February 15, 2010: Vegetarian Tortilla Soup

Fresh and spicy, Tortilla Soup is a delicious way to warm up on a cold, winter day. This is a vegetarian rendition that is no less satisfying than traditional versions that contains chicken. (You can always use chicken broth and add chicken, if you desire.) Also, by baking the tortilla strips instead of frying them, you'll eliminate unnecessary fat from the recipe.

(Not all the vegetables in this recipe are in season this time of year. So, a little bit of cheating is necessary... unless you omit the bell pepper and zucchini. In their place, however, you may want to try Swiss chard or turnips or carrots or potatoes or baby spinach or parsnips or ... )

VEGETARIAN TORTILLA SOUP
From "Moosewood Daily Special Cookbook"

1 T olive oil
1 large onion, diced
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
1 canned chipotle pepper in adobo, diced
2 tomatillos, husked, seeded and diced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 medium zucchini, diced
1 T ground coriander
1 T ground cumin
1 t dried oregano
8 cups vegetable stock (or mock chicken stock)
1/4 cup lime juice
1 t adobo sauce from the chipotle can
Chopped cilantro leaves
3 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
8 corn 6-inch tortillas, cut into strips

Optional Garnishes
Avocado cubes
Queso fresco
Grated Monterey Jack

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F.

In a soup pot, heat the oil and saute the onions, jalapenos, chipotle, tomatillos, bell peppers, and zucchini for about 5 minutes, until softened. Add the coriander, cumin and oregano and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes longer. Stir in the stock, lime juice and adobo sauce and bring to a simmer. Add the chopped cilantro and corn. Cook for about 10 minutes.

While the soup is cooking, bake the tortilla strips on an unoiled baking sheets for 15 minutes, or until crisp.

To serve, place some tortilla strips in a bowl and ladle soup on top. Serve with the optional garnishes.

February 14, 2010: Eppie Hearts

Back in my Chicago days, I had the privilege of baking cookies for a very famous sweet tooth -- the one and only Ann Landers. She was a dear friend of Dan Herr, my husband's boss, and they would often meet for dinner. Amusingly, according to Dan, Ms. Landers didn't always wait for the dessert course to enjoy her sweets. Often, she would skip over the customary salad and entree to dive into an array of desserts; meanwhile, Dan would be eating his bouef and vin blanc. I enter the story when Dan asked me to bake a couple dozen of the Viennese chocolate-dipped almond sandwiches that I started baking as he thought his friend, "Eppie," would adore them. And, she did!

Eppie is Ann Lander's nickname and I renamed the cookies after her. The recipe is based on the Ischler Cookies in Maida Heatter's "Book of Great Cookies." The almond wafers that make the sandwich are light and delicate and filled with smooth apricot preserves, then dipped in a chocolate glaze. I decided they would be lovely cut into hearts rather than the plain, round cookie shape of the original. But, I must warn you, these take time and effort to make; I would only make them for a very special valentine!

This recipe is written in memory of Dan Herr, a very dear friend who had an inspiring soul.

EPPIE HEARTS
Ischler Cookies from Maida Heatter's "Book of Great Cookies"

Cookie Dough
8 ounces blanched almonds
2 1/4 cups flour
2/3 cup sugar
10 ounces unsalted butter

Grind the almonds in your food processor to a fine powder. Add the flour, sugar and butter and process until it resembles a coarse meal. Turn the dough onto a board. Schmush the dough together with your hands until it holds together. Then, with the heel of your hand, push (or break) small amounts of dough away from the mass until all the dough has been pushed off. Reform the dough again and repeat the pushing process. When the dough holds together, form it into 2 balls. Place ball between 2 large pieces of waxed paper. Flatten the ball slightly, then, with a rolling pin, roll over the dough until it is 1/4 inch thick. Make sure the paper stays smooth. Slide a cookie sheet under the rolled-out dough and place in the freezer until the dough is firm and the paper can be pulled off easily. Repeat with the second ball of dough. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. When the dough is firm, peel off one piece of the waxed paper to release it, then replace it. Then, turn the sheet of dough over and completely peel off the second piece of waxed paper. Using a medium heart-shaped cutter, cut out cookies and place them 1 inch apart on parchment paper-lined baking sheets. (Reserve scraps, form into a ball, and roll out into sheets as described above.) Bake the cookies for 15 to 18 minutes, reversing the sheets from top to bottom, front to back, midway through the baking. Be careful not to over-bake; the cookies should remain a light, sandy color. Remove to racks when done to cool.

Filling
3/4 cup smooth apricot preserves

Make sandwiches by spreading the underside of one cookie with a thin coating of apricot preserves. Cover with another cookie, then gently press together.

Chocolate Glaze
12 ounces semi-sweet chocolate
2 T Crisco

Melt the chocolate and Crisco in the top of a double-boiler; stir until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl or cup for easier handling. Line cookie sheets with waxed or parchment paper. Dip the cookies halfway into the glaze, gently wiping the bottom against the edge of the bowl to remove excess chocolate. Place on the paper-lined cookie sheet. When the cookie sheet is full, place it in the freezer briefly to set the glaze, or until the cookies lift easily off the paper. Store the cookies in the refrigerator in an air-tight container between sheets of waxed paper in the.

February 13, 2010: Zucchini Soup with Swiss Chard

I had a bunch of Swiss chard in the fridge but didn't feel like sauteing it this time. So, I found a recipe for inspiration, took the soup pot out and got to work. Although the main vegetable in this recipe is zucchini*, I used the entire bunch of chard, including the stems. I used onions, ghee (clarified butter found in Indian markets and some super markets, such as Whole Foods), turmeric, ground toasted cumin and ground coriander to create the palette of flavors. After the vegetables were done, I pureed the soup in my Cuisinart. It made for a nice, light dinner... with a toasted slice of Whole Wheat Bread with Walnuts (February 12, 2010).

ZUCCHINI SOUP WITH SWISS CHARD

1 bunch Swiss chard, thoroughly rinsed
2 T ghee
1 T olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1/2 t turmeric
1/2 t ground toasted cumin
1/2 t ground coriander
4 cups vegetable or chicken broth**
2 pounds zucchini
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

With a sharp knife, cut the chard leaves away from their stems. Stack the leaves and cut them into a chiffonade; reserve. Cut the stems crosswise into 1/2 inch pieces. Heat the ghee and oil in a heavy soup pot over low heat. Add the onions and Swiss chard stems and cook, stirring, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the spices and cook, continuing to stir, for about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Add the zucchini to the pot, reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove the soup from the heat; add the Swiss chard and cover the pot. Let it stand for 5 minutes to wilt the leaves. Puree the soup, in batches, in your blender or food processor. Return the soup to the pot and season with salt and pepper.

*I broke one of my cardinal rules, namely only buying produce that is in season. I bought the zucchini at my farmers' market, so it had to be local and seasonal, right? Wrong! Not all "farmers" represented at the market are the real McCoy. There are some sellers who get their produce from downtown wholesale produce marts and there is no telling where that produce is grown. My guess is the zucchini I purchased was from Mexico and wasn't organic. None of the bona fide organic, local farmers have sold a zucchini in quite a few months. My advice here is it's good to get acquainted with the who's who at your local farmers market so you're sure to be getting local and organic.

So, I cheated this time because I wanted to make this soup recipe. However, almost 100% of the time, I buy in-season produce because I like to celebrate Mother Earth's natural rhythms. Maybe a pear tastes even better not only because it was plucked from a local tree in the Autumn and picked at its peak, but because of the year-long anticipation of that first, juicy bite.

**Miso might work well in this recipe. I think I'm going to give it a try next time.

February 12, 2010: Whole Wheat Bread with Walnuts

The aroma of bread baking brings an inexplicably primal feeling to my heart that all is right with the world. Perhaps it's because wheat, sometimes called the "staff of life," has been a staple in the human diet for so many generations that it has become imprinted in our DNA. Whatever the reason, my taste buds wake up and look forward to the prospect of having a slice of warm bread with a schmear of butter or a slice of Gruyere.

The beauty of this bread lies in its granular texture that is studded with the sweetness of walnuts. More important, though, is the health benefit of eating a whole grain bread versus breads that are made from highly processed white flour. The recipe comes from Bernard Clayton Jr.'s "The Complete Book of Breads," an oft-consulted tome in my early days of married life when I vowed to only serve home-baked bread. Maybe it's time to renew my vows...

WHOLE WHEAT BREAD WITH WALNUTS

1 package dry yeast
Pinch of raw sugar
1 1/4 cups warm water (105 - 115 degrees F.)
1 cup warm milk
2 T butter, melted
2 T raw sugar
2 t sea salt
6 cups whole wheat flour, approximately
1 cup chopped walnuts

In a large mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast and pinch of sugar in 1/4 cup of the warm water. Proof the yeast to make sure it's still active; it'll take about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining water, milk, butter, sugar, salt, and about 4 cups of flour. Beat in an electric mixer for about 3 minutes, or beat with a wooden spoon for about 150 strokes. Add another cup of flour; beat until it forms a mass. Let rest for 5 minutes. Knead in enough of the remaining flour, either by machine or by hand on a floured surface, until it is light and satiny. Place in a oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, then with a towel, and let rise for 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk. Turn the dough onto a floured surface. Flatten the dough, sprinkle with the walnuts and gently work them into the dough. Divide the dough in half and form into loaves. Place them into 2 oiled 8 1/2 x

4 1/2-inch metal baking pans. Cover with a towel, put in a warm place and let them rise, about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 375 degrees F. When the loaves have doubled in bulk, place them in the middle of your oven and bake for 45 minutes. When done, (the loaves will be browned and their sides pull away from the sides of the pans) remove the bread from the oven and cool on wire racks.

February 11, 2010: Braised Red Cabbage with Apples

One of the foods mentioned in the New York Times article, "The Eleven Best Foods You Aren't Eating" is cabbage. A member of the Cruciferae family, cabbage is rich in nutrients, including chemicals that have detoxifying properties and boost enzymes that fight many forms of cancer. Red cabbage has even higher concentrations of these nutrients than the green varieties.

I looked forward to braising the fine head of red cabbage I purchased at -- where else but -- the farmers' market. The following recipe was published recently in the Wellness section of the New York Times. The remaining ingredients were already in my pantry. I used the balsamic vinegar as listed in the recipe, but I think I would like to try apple cider vinegar next time. I served it as a side dish with grilled chicken, lentil salad, and a baby greens salad; however, I think you could have a satisfying meal by pairing up the braised cabbage with a grain, such as steamed brown rice, lentils or a bulgur salad. Lastly, I found the flavor of this dish to improve the day after cooking.

BRAISED RED CABBAGE WITH APPLES

1 head red cabbage, shredded
2 T olive oil
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 tart apples, peeled, cored and sliced
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar (or try apple cider vinegar)
1/4 t ground allspice
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Cover the shredded cabbage with cold water while you are prepping the other ingredients. Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot. Add the onion and cook until soft. Add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar; continue to cook for about 2 minutes, stirring all the while. Add the apples; continue to cook another 2 minutes. Drain the cabbage and add it to the pot. Stir in the allspice and 2 more tablespoons of vinegar. Cover and cook over low heat for 1 hour, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is soft. Add another tablespoon of vinegar, if desired. Stir in salt and pepper, to taste.