February 27, 2010: Mango Chutney

Chutneys are pickled condiments, matching fruits or vegetables with spices, that originated in India. Beginning in the 16th century, they were exported to England and Europe and thereby introduced into their cuisines. One of the lasting remnants of this history is the well-known Major Grey's brand, a spicy mango and ginger concoction. Chutney is particularly easy to make in your own kitchen; I suggest you import it into your own repertoire.

MANGO CHUTNEY

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh ginger
3 cloves garlic
3 small dried red chilies, seeds removed, coarsely chopped
1 1/2 cups malt vinegar
1 cup sugar
2 ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted and cut into 1/2 inch cubes

Combine the ginger, garlic, chilies, and 2d tablespoons of malt vinegar in your food processor. Process until finely chopped. Transfer to a small heavy non-reactive saucepan. Add the remaining vinegar and sugar. Bring to a boil. Reduce and simmer until thickened and syrupy, about 25 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the mangoes. Pour into a glass jar. Store in the refrigerator.

February 26, 2010: Baked Macadamia-Crusted Halibut with Coconut Sauce

Macadamia-crusted halibut seems to have made a sudden appearance on every yuppie restaurant menu. I first encountered in it in Sheila Lukins "U.S.A. Cookbook" while trawling for new ideas. I served it for an executive lunch and it became an instant favorite. It's no wonder it's so popular with restaurants. You would want to save this for special occasions as this recipe has some rich embellishments.

MACADAMIA-CRUSTED HALIBUT WITH COCONUT SAUCE
From Sheila Lukins "U.S.A. Cookbook"

Coconut Curry Sauce
2 T peanut oil
3 T red curry paste
3 cups coconut milk
Sea salt, to taste

Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the curry paste and cook, stirring to dissolve, for about 1 minute. Add the coconut milk and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the mixture has reduced in half, about 25 minutes. Season with salt, to taste. Keep warm.

Halibut
1 cup flour
2 large eggs
1/8 t cayenne
1/2 pound macadamia nuts, very finely chopped
1 pound fresh halibut, cut into 4 fillets
1/4 cup melted butter
Mango chutney
2 T chopped fresh cilantro

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.

Place the flour in a bowl or pie plate. Whisk the eggs and the cayenne in another plate. Place the nuts in another pie plate. Dredge the halibut in the flour, dip in the egg mixture, then dredge them in the chopped nuts. Place on a lightly buttered baking dish. Drizzle each fillet with a tablespoon of melted butter. Bake in the center of the oven for 10 to 15 minutes. To serve: spoon some of the coconut sauce onto a plate, lay a fillet on top of the sauce, garnish with a tablespoon of chutney, and sprinkle with chopped cilantro.

February 25, 2010: Potato Gnocchi

I had read many descriptions of gnocchi from cookbooks and food magazines that were so alluring that I thought, "This is something I want to have some day." I finally experienced these delicate, plump, potato pillows at Angeli Cafe on Melrose in West Hollywood. They were light as a feather and simple in composition; bathed simply in butter and dusted with parmigiano, each mouthful was an event.

It took me years to attempt to make gnocchi from scratch at home. Although I routinely cranked out my own pasta dough, I felt daunted by these sublime Italian wonders. They seemed too impossibly perfect to recreate. I finally got over the fear and, after a rubbery outcome or two, I finally got the knack one evening with my daughter, Ingrid, as sous chef and cheerleader.

POTATO GNOCCHI WITH BUTTER AND PARMIGIANO

1 pound potatoes, scrubbed clean
Pinch of Sea Salt
1 egg yolk
3/4 cup flour
2 t olive oil
4 T butter
Freshly grated parmigiano reggiano
Minced fresh parsley or snipped chives

Place the potatoes in a saucepan with water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender. Drain; let potatoes stand until they are cool enough to handle. Peel and cut them into chunks. Pass the chunks through a potato ricer or food mill. Transfer to a lightly floured surface. Make a well in the middle where you will put the egg yolk. Slowly work the flour into the potatoes until the mixture forms a smooth, slightly sticky dough. Divide the dough into quarters. Roll each into a rope, about 15 inches long and 3/4 inch in diameter. Using a floured knife, cut each rope into 30 pieces. Indent each gnocchi on one side with the tines of a floured fork. Place in a single layer on a lightly floured cookie sheet. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a few pinches of salt and the olive oil. Drop the gnocchi into the boiling water. When they rise to surface, let them cook about another 10 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon or drain in a colander. Melt the butter in a large skillet. Add the cooked gnocchi and gently toss them in the butter. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Serve sprinkled with freshly grated parmigiano reggiano and parsley/chives.

*Fresh gnocchi can be frozen very successfully. Place them in a single layer on a floured cookie sheet then put them in the freezer. When frozen, place in a ziploc bag. Cooking instructions are identical as fresh gnocchi.

*Gnocchi is a suitable blank canvas for a diverse spectrum of sauces and flavors. Tonight, I served gnocchi with ragu (sauce bolognese). Mmmmmmm.

*This basic gnocchi dough can be enhanced with other flavors, such as spinach, herbs and sweet potato with sage.

February 24, 2010: Laurie's Raisin-Oatmeal Cookies

It was many years ago this recipe was given to me by my best friend, Laurie. I remember batches of oatmeal cookies stored in the blue and white antique soup tureen on the pine sideboard in her Mom's dining room. They were irresistible then, and they're still irresistible today. Just this morning, (like 40 years later) I baked a few dozen for our after-school pizza fund-raiser. There was nary a crumb left for a sparrow to nibble on!

I love the hybrid texture of these cookies: they're simultaneously crunchy and chewy. For today's dough I used old-fashioned oats in lieu of quick oats and had excellent results. Another change I made is using golden sultanas instead of dark raisins. Other than that, the recipe maintains the excellent vintage of the original.

LAURIE'S RAISIN-OATMEAL COOKIES

3/4 cup butter
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup white sugar
1 egg
1/4 t lemon juice
1 cup flour
1/2 t baking soda
1/2 t salt
1 t cinnamon
1 cup oats
1 cup golden sultanas


Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F.

In a medium mixing bowl, cream the butter with the sugars. Beat in the egg and lemon juice. On low speed, add the flour, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. When thoroughly blended, stir in the oats and sultanas. Drop by tablespoonfuls onto cookie sheets lined with parchment paper, at least 1 inch apart. Bake for 8 minutes, then move the sheets from top to bottom and from left to right. Bake for another 7 minutes. Carefully remove cookies from sheets with a metal spatula to a wire rack to cool. Store in an air-tight container. Makes about 3 dozen.

*I have switched from greasing my baking sheets to using baker's parchment paper. The paper can be used over and over and your cookie sheets stay cleaner. In my experience, there even seems to be a lesser chance for cookies stubbornly sticking when you use parchment. I was first introduced to this method when I worked at a small, independent bakery on Sunset Boulevard, shortly after moving to California in 1974. However, I didn't adopt it until relatively recently. I don't know why it took me so long!

*A cute gift idea is to fill a plastic Ziploc bag with frozen unbaked cookie dough that has been portioned out. Then, put the bag in a decorative container (such as a tin, Chinese take-out box or gift bag) with baking instructions. This was given to me by a student for Christmas this year. His sweet mom said, "Everyone needs a freshly baked cookie every now and then." When the urge hits, take one or two balls of dough out of the freezer, pop them into the toaster oven and in a matter of minutes your fresh-baked treat is ready!

February 23, 2010: Lemon-Vanilla Cheesecake

I grew up in New York City where cheesecake was once the king of desserts. Nowadays, cupcakes and macaroons have sidled into number one positions. I still remember my first glorious bite of the heavenly cheesecake that the Brass Rail restaurant made famous. I was a teenager and it was unlike any kind of cake I had ever experienced for certainly wasn't in my family's culinary vocabulary. For quite awhile, it was my favorite dessert order. And, I can't tell you how many cheesecakes I baked during my catering career!

There are myriad variations of cheesecake, savory as well as sweet. The following recipe is exceptional just as is; but don't be afraid to put your imagination to work. I once made an English toffee version. Imagine....

LEMON-VANILLA CHEESECAKE
From Maida Heatter's "Book of Great Desserts"

2 pounds cream cheese
1 1/2 cups sugar
4 eggs
1 t vanilla extract
3 T fresh lemon juice
1 T grated lemon rind
1/3 cup graham cracker crumbs

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

In the bowl of your electric mixer, beat the cream cheese with the sugar until smooth and light. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well and scraping the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula after each addition. On low speed, ad the vanilla extract, lemon juice and grated lemon rind. Pour into a greased 8-inch round metal pan that is 3 inches deep. Put the pan into a larger pan and pour in hot water to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Place in the bottom third of the oven. Bake for 1 1/2 hours. Lift the cheesecake out of the water and cool completely. Invert onto a plate covered with oiled waxed paper. Spoon the graham cracker crumbs evenly over the bottom of the cake. Invert again onto your serving plate. Refrigerate 6 hours before serving.

*Fresh berries or lingonberry preserves are excellent garnishes to serve with this cheesecake.

February 22, 2010: Shepherd's Pie

Shepherd's Pie most likely came about as a thrifty way to use the leftovers from Sunday dinner. What the British created was the quintessential leftover masterpiece. Traditionally made with cooked roast lamb, you can substitute cooked fresh ground lamb with satisfactory results. I served it regularly in my days as chef of an executive dining room; the English-born CEO was especially appreciative. The following recipe is from one of Craig Claiborne's New York Times compilations.

SHEPHERD'S PIE
From "The New York Times Cookbook" 1990 Revised Edition

1 pound cooked roast lamb, cut up into 1/4-inch pieces
OR
1 1/2 pounds ground lamb, cooked and drained of fat
2 T butter
1 cup onions, finely chopped
1/2 cup carrots, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 cup celery, finely chopped
2 T fresh parsley, minced
3 T flour
2 T tomato paste
1/2 cup white wine or stock
1 1/2 cups stock
1 t Worcestershire sauce
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 cup steamed fresh corn kernels (or frozen)
2 or more cups mashed potatoes
1/2 cup shredded Gruyere cheese
Additional minced fresh parsley, for garnish

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and parsley. Cook, stirring, until the onions have softened. Sprinkle the vegetables with the flour. Rapidly whisk in the tomato paste, wine, stock, and Worcestershire sauce. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the pepper and cooked meat. Simmer an additional 5 minutes. Pour the meat mixture into a buttered casserole. Gently and evenly spread the mashed potatoes on top; sprinkle with grated Gruyere. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes, until the casserole is piping hot and the cheese is melted. Sprinkle with additional minced parsley before serving.

*Tip! When preparing the mashed potatoes for Shepherd's Pie, I usually add a little more liquid to lighten them slightly thereby making the mixture easier to spread.

*Tip! If you are using fresh lamb, cook it in the same saucepan (or skillet) that you're going to use for the rest of the recipe. Note: Remember to drain the fat before proceeding with the rest of the recipe!

*Try ground turkey in place of the lamb.

February 21, 2010: Maple Yam Mash

First order of business: I braised the boeuf en daube that I was marinating since yesterday (February 21, 2010). The meat was indeed tender and delicately infused with the red wine, garlic, onions, carrots, and thyme. However, the overall dish didn't appeal to me; I didn't like the thin sauce. Instead of reducing the liquid over high heat, as Mark Bittman wrote, I whisked in a buerre manie made from 2 tablespoons each of clarified butter (ghee) and flour, then cooked it over medium high heat until the sauce was nicely thickened. It improved the daube but I prefer the complexity of flavors in the sauces of other stews, such as boeuf bourgignon or Hungarian goulash.

Back to today: To accompany the daube, I made fresh egg noodles, steamed farm-fresh broccoli and brilliant orange mashed yams. I actually prepared only one enormous yam which was enough for three servings. Yams and sweet potatoes are often confused with each other. In fact, they belong to entirely different plant families. Sweet potatoes are distantly related to the potato whereas yams are from the genus dioscorea. They high in vitamin C, dietary fiber and potassium. Plus, yams contain less starch than the sweet potato thereby giving them a lighter texture.

MAPLE YAM MASH

Yams, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
Butter or ghee
Natural maple syrup
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg

Place the prepared yams into a pot; cover with salted water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, or until yams are tender. Add a tablespoon or so of butter and maple syrup to every 2 cups of yams (or to taste). Mash until smooth. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, to taste.

*By all means, sweet potatoes can be substituted for yams in this recipe. Just keep in mind they are starchier and drier so you may want to add a little liquid , such as freshly squeezed orange juice.

February 20, 2010: Boeuf en Daube

Today I fell for the special Whole Foods had on grass-fed chuck roasts. By the time I got my fine roast home, its fate was sealed: I was cutting it up for daube. Boeuf en daube is simply beef stew a la francaise. The meat is marinated in red wine, vegetables and seasonings for up to a day. (This tenderizes and infuses the meat with flavor.) Then, it is slowly braised in a heavy casserole, or daubiere as it is called in France. I love the simplicity of this recipe from Mark Bittman's "How to Cook Everything". Serve it with a fresh green vegetable and steamed or mashed potatoes.

BOEUF EN DAUBE
From Mark Bittman's "How to Cook Everything"

8 cloves garlic
2 1/2 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes
1 onion, chopped
1 large or 2 small carrot(s), peeled and sliced
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 T vinegar
1 cup red wine
1/2 t fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
Chopped parsley

Peel and mince 6 cloves of the garlic. Combine in a non-reactive bowl with the rest of the ingredients, except for the parsley and 2 reserved garlic cloves. Cover, refrigerate and marinate beef up to 24 hours.

Place the meat and marinade ingredients into a heavy, covered casserole. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and cover. Simmer gently 1 to1 1/2 hours, until the meat is tender. Uncover the casserole, raise the heat and boil to reduce it slightly, if necessary. Peel and mince the reserved cloves of garlic. Add to the daube and simmer for another 5 minutes. Check the seasonings, adding salt or pepper as necessary. Sprinkle with chopped parsley before serving.

*My daube is currently in the marinating stage. It is with great anticipation I think about the tempting aroma that will fill the kitchen once it starts simmering on the stove. Before that, though, I go to the farmers' market to pick up a delectable and super fresh vegetable. Hmmmm, I still have a loaf of Julia's french bread waiting in the freezer that I made for our New Year's Eve gruyere fondue. Boy, some people have it good!

*Other starches to consider serving with daube are creamy polenta, spaetzle or egg noodles.

February 19, 2010: Brussels Sprouts Sauteed with Indian Spices

I had chicken marinating in lemon juice, garlic and rosemary to put on the grill for dinner and needed to come up with a vegetable. Remembering there were brussels sprouts in the fridge, I consulted Alice Waters' "Chez Panisse Vegetables" cookbook for inspiration. I zeroed in on a recipe for a spicy broccoli saute with Indian spices. I adapted it to ingredients I had on hand and the result was delicious.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTEED WITH INDIAN SPICES

1 pound brussels sprouts
2 T ghee
2 rounds of fresh ginger, minced
1/2 t cumin seed
1 t mustard seed
1/4 t turmeric
1 small onion, chopped
Applewood-smoked sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
Water, as needed

Clean the brussels sprouts. With a sharp knife, slice off the bottom of the stem end. Pull off any damaged leaves. Quarter each brussels sprout lengthwise. Melt the ghee in a heavy pot. Add the ginger, cumin seed, mustard seed, and turmeric. Gently saute until the mustard seeds start to pop. (This brings out the flavors of the spices.) Stir in the onion and saute until they are softened. Add the brussels sprouts, stirring the coat them with the seasonings. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Add 1 or 2 tablespoons of water to the pot, cover and steam the brussels sprouts for about ten minutes, or to desired tenderness. Lift the cover occasionally to stir the ingredients and to add more water, if needed.

*You don't have to use smoked salt; unflavored salt will be absolutely fine. I discovered the delights of smoked salt this summer. I had a jar of applewood-smoked salt in my spice cupboard so I used it in this dish. I found it added a subtle grace note of flavor to the rest of the seasonings.

February 18, 2010: Roast Rack of Lamb with Lemon, Mustard and Herbs

I was drawing a blank on what to write about... until it dawned on me that today it's Laurie's birthday! (Laurie is my dearest friend ever!) I remember one of her birthday celebrations from our teenage years. It was a family affair. We were seated around the elegant antique pine table -- the one with the built-in lazy susan -- in her mother's dining room in Jamaica, NY and savoring one of Laurie's favorite meals: a splendid leg of lamb with all the trimmings. (The birthday cake was from a local bakery, whose name escapes me. You know, it's the kind with the totally decadent sugary flowers. A tradition-bound indulgence, reserved for special family occasions.) I was rather impressed by my friend's sophisticated palette; lamb was not on my Top Ten list at the time. But, Laurie definitely became an influence in expanding my culinary horizons... among many other adventures.

So, in honor of Laurie, I'm sharing this recipe for a succulent rack of rosy lamb. It may not be the roast her mother so memorably served, but I think it would fit the bill. The marinade brilliantly complements the lusty flavor of the meat. You can use a single herb or a create a bouquet of flavors. The mustard helps maintain the juiciness of the meat.

Happy Birthday Lovely Laurie!

ROAST RACK OF LAMB WITH LEMON, MUSTARD AND HERB

Lemon, Mustard & Herb Marinade
2 cloves garlic, pressed
1/2 t sea salt
1 T soy sauce or Bragg's Amino Acids
Chopped fresh herbs, such as rosemary, thyme, chives and/or oregano
2 T lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil

Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl.


2 racks of lamb, trimmed
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs
2 T melted butter, optional

Brush the marinade on the trimmed racks of lamb. Place in a glass dish, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to one day in advance.

Preheat oven to 500 degrees F. Set the rack to upper middle level of your oven. Place the lamb in a metal roasting pan, then roast for 10 minutes at 500 degrees to sear the meat. Reduce the temperature to 400 degrees F. Open the oven and quickly spread the bread crumbs over the tops of the racks and drizzle with the optional butter. Return to the oven and roast for 20 minutes, or until an internal meat thermometer measures 125 degrees F. The meat should be a nice rosy pink color. Let the roasts rest for 5 minutes before carving into individual ribs.

*Lentil salad and and parboiled fresh asparagus spears are nice accompaniments for lamb and make a lovely springtime dinner.*For a summertime menu, you could marinate individual chops and grill the lamb. Serve with grilled vegetables or ratatouille with bulgur salad.

*If you're having a small dinner party, an elegant touch would be to carve the rack of lamb at table.

*The marinade is equally marvelous for steaks, chicken and seafood.

February 17, 2010: Fennel Vichyssoise

Vichyssoise is an elegant French classic. A pureed soup made with potatoes, leeks and cream, it is the ultimate in comfort food. However, it's loaded with a richness that could be heart-stopping and waist-thickening. Fennel Vichyssoise (another winning recipe from the "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special" cookbook) is a leaner alternative with an elegance all its own. The potato and leek base is made lighter by the fennel -- which also imparts a lovely anise flavor. The soup is further lightened by replacing the cream with low fat milk. Serve this as a first course at your next dinner party or for a simple dinner with a salad and freshly baked whole wheat bread.

FENNEL VICHYSSOISE
From "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special"

3 cups chopped potatoes
2 cups vegetable, chicken stock or Mock Chicken Stock (February 16)
1 T fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 cups chopped leeks, white parts only
2 t olive oil or ghee
4 garlic cloves, pressed
2 1/4 cups fresh fennel bulbs, chopped
1/2 cup parsnips, peeled and chopped
1 T white wine
1 t sea salt
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
1/2 t ground fennel seeds
1/2 cup fresh parsley, finely minced
3 cups low fat milk
Fresh chives, snipped

In a medium saucepan, combine the potatoes, stock and lemon juice. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a soup pot, saute the leeks in the oil or ghee, stirring, until softened. Add the garlic, fennel, parsnips, and wine. Cover the pot and cook for 5 or 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the salt, pepper, ground fennel, and parsley. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes to the soup pot; stir in the milk. In batches, puree the soup in your blender or food processor, until smooth and creamy. If desired, put the soup through a food mill for an extra-smooth and velvety texture. Serve hot or chilled. Ladle into soup bowls and sprinkle with snipped chives.

February 16, 2010: "Mock" Chicken Stock (vegetarian)

Homemade stock is the best choice when making a pot of soup. You have control over the quality and variety of ingredients that go into it and you benefit from it being fresh (the fresher, the better!) and free of extraneous chemicals. Chicken stock has a unique richness that is an excellent foundation for many soups. The good news for vegetarians is they don't have to be left out because of this fine (and easy!) recipe from the "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special" cookbook. Turmeric lends a yellow tone to the stock, making "Mock Chicken Stock" reminiscent of the real thing.

"MOCK" CHICKEN STOCK
From "Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special"

14 cups water
7 cups onions, chopped
4 cups celery, chopped
4 cups carrots, peeled and chopped
4 potatoes, scrubbed and chopped
2 heads of garlic, separated into cloves (there is no need to peel the cloves)
5 bay leaves
1 1/2 t dried thyme or a small bunch of fresh thyme
1 1/2 t turmeric
1/2 t sea salt, or to taste
1/2 bunch fresh parsley, rinsed

Put the water into a large stockpot; add the rest of the ingredients. Bring to a boil and cook, uncovered for 15 minutes. Then, cover the pot, turn the heat to low and simmer the stock for one hour. Set aside to cool; strain. Use immediately, store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or freeze up to 6 months.d

*You don't have to be fussy about how neatly the vegetables are prepped. Coarse chopping will do!

*I'm going to make this over the weekend and will substitute 2 cups of parsnips for 2 cups of the carrots. I'll report back to you.

February 15, 2010: Vegetarian Tortilla Soup

Fresh and spicy, Tortilla Soup is a delicious way to warm up on a cold, winter day. This is a vegetarian rendition that is no less satisfying than traditional versions that contains chicken. (You can always use chicken broth and add chicken, if you desire.) Also, by baking the tortilla strips instead of frying them, you'll eliminate unnecessary fat from the recipe.

(Not all the vegetables in this recipe are in season this time of year. So, a little bit of cheating is necessary... unless you omit the bell pepper and zucchini. In their place, however, you may want to try Swiss chard or turnips or carrots or potatoes or baby spinach or parsnips or ... )

VEGETARIAN TORTILLA SOUP
From "Moosewood Daily Special Cookbook"

1 T olive oil
1 large onion, diced
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
1 canned chipotle pepper in adobo, diced
2 tomatillos, husked, seeded and diced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 medium zucchini, diced
1 T ground coriander
1 T ground cumin
1 t dried oregano
8 cups vegetable stock (or mock chicken stock)
1/4 cup lime juice
1 t adobo sauce from the chipotle can
Chopped cilantro leaves
3 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
8 corn 6-inch tortillas, cut into strips

Optional Garnishes
Avocado cubes
Queso fresco
Grated Monterey Jack

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F.

In a soup pot, heat the oil and saute the onions, jalapenos, chipotle, tomatillos, bell peppers, and zucchini for about 5 minutes, until softened. Add the coriander, cumin and oregano and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes longer. Stir in the stock, lime juice and adobo sauce and bring to a simmer. Add the chopped cilantro and corn. Cook for about 10 minutes.

While the soup is cooking, bake the tortilla strips on an unoiled baking sheets for 15 minutes, or until crisp.

To serve, place some tortilla strips in a bowl and ladle soup on top. Serve with the optional garnishes.

February 14, 2010: Eppie Hearts

Back in my Chicago days, I had the privilege of baking cookies for a very famous sweet tooth -- the one and only Ann Landers. She was a dear friend of Dan Herr, my husband's boss, and they would often meet for dinner. Amusingly, according to Dan, Ms. Landers didn't always wait for the dessert course to enjoy her sweets. Often, she would skip over the customary salad and entree to dive into an array of desserts; meanwhile, Dan would be eating his bouef and vin blanc. I enter the story when Dan asked me to bake a couple dozen of the Viennese chocolate-dipped almond sandwiches that I started baking as he thought his friend, "Eppie," would adore them. And, she did!

Eppie is Ann Lander's nickname and I renamed the cookies after her. The recipe is based on the Ischler Cookies in Maida Heatter's "Book of Great Cookies." The almond wafers that make the sandwich are light and delicate and filled with smooth apricot preserves, then dipped in a chocolate glaze. I decided they would be lovely cut into hearts rather than the plain, round cookie shape of the original. But, I must warn you, these take time and effort to make; I would only make them for a very special valentine!

This recipe is written in memory of Dan Herr, a very dear friend who had an inspiring soul.

EPPIE HEARTS
Ischler Cookies from Maida Heatter's "Book of Great Cookies"

Cookie Dough
8 ounces blanched almonds
2 1/4 cups flour
2/3 cup sugar
10 ounces unsalted butter

Grind the almonds in your food processor to a fine powder. Add the flour, sugar and butter and process until it resembles a coarse meal. Turn the dough onto a board. Schmush the dough together with your hands until it holds together. Then, with the heel of your hand, push (or break) small amounts of dough away from the mass until all the dough has been pushed off. Reform the dough again and repeat the pushing process. When the dough holds together, form it into 2 balls. Place ball between 2 large pieces of waxed paper. Flatten the ball slightly, then, with a rolling pin, roll over the dough until it is 1/4 inch thick. Make sure the paper stays smooth. Slide a cookie sheet under the rolled-out dough and place in the freezer until the dough is firm and the paper can be pulled off easily. Repeat with the second ball of dough. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. When the dough is firm, peel off one piece of the waxed paper to release it, then replace it. Then, turn the sheet of dough over and completely peel off the second piece of waxed paper. Using a medium heart-shaped cutter, cut out cookies and place them 1 inch apart on parchment paper-lined baking sheets. (Reserve scraps, form into a ball, and roll out into sheets as described above.) Bake the cookies for 15 to 18 minutes, reversing the sheets from top to bottom, front to back, midway through the baking. Be careful not to over-bake; the cookies should remain a light, sandy color. Remove to racks when done to cool.

Filling
3/4 cup smooth apricot preserves

Make sandwiches by spreading the underside of one cookie with a thin coating of apricot preserves. Cover with another cookie, then gently press together.

Chocolate Glaze
12 ounces semi-sweet chocolate
2 T Crisco

Melt the chocolate and Crisco in the top of a double-boiler; stir until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl or cup for easier handling. Line cookie sheets with waxed or parchment paper. Dip the cookies halfway into the glaze, gently wiping the bottom against the edge of the bowl to remove excess chocolate. Place on the paper-lined cookie sheet. When the cookie sheet is full, place it in the freezer briefly to set the glaze, or until the cookies lift easily off the paper. Store the cookies in the refrigerator in an air-tight container between sheets of waxed paper in the.

February 13, 2010: Zucchini Soup with Swiss Chard

I had a bunch of Swiss chard in the fridge but didn't feel like sauteing it this time. So, I found a recipe for inspiration, took the soup pot out and got to work. Although the main vegetable in this recipe is zucchini*, I used the entire bunch of chard, including the stems. I used onions, ghee (clarified butter found in Indian markets and some super markets, such as Whole Foods), turmeric, ground toasted cumin and ground coriander to create the palette of flavors. After the vegetables were done, I pureed the soup in my Cuisinart. It made for a nice, light dinner... with a toasted slice of Whole Wheat Bread with Walnuts (February 12, 2010).

ZUCCHINI SOUP WITH SWISS CHARD

1 bunch Swiss chard, thoroughly rinsed
2 T ghee
1 T olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1/2 t turmeric
1/2 t ground toasted cumin
1/2 t ground coriander
4 cups vegetable or chicken broth**
2 pounds zucchini
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

With a sharp knife, cut the chard leaves away from their stems. Stack the leaves and cut them into a chiffonade; reserve. Cut the stems crosswise into 1/2 inch pieces. Heat the ghee and oil in a heavy soup pot over low heat. Add the onions and Swiss chard stems and cook, stirring, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the spices and cook, continuing to stir, for about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Add the zucchini to the pot, reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove the soup from the heat; add the Swiss chard and cover the pot. Let it stand for 5 minutes to wilt the leaves. Puree the soup, in batches, in your blender or food processor. Return the soup to the pot and season with salt and pepper.

*I broke one of my cardinal rules, namely only buying produce that is in season. I bought the zucchini at my farmers' market, so it had to be local and seasonal, right? Wrong! Not all "farmers" represented at the market are the real McCoy. There are some sellers who get their produce from downtown wholesale produce marts and there is no telling where that produce is grown. My guess is the zucchini I purchased was from Mexico and wasn't organic. None of the bona fide organic, local farmers have sold a zucchini in quite a few months. My advice here is it's good to get acquainted with the who's who at your local farmers market so you're sure to be getting local and organic.

So, I cheated this time because I wanted to make this soup recipe. However, almost 100% of the time, I buy in-season produce because I like to celebrate Mother Earth's natural rhythms. Maybe a pear tastes even better not only because it was plucked from a local tree in the Autumn and picked at its peak, but because of the year-long anticipation of that first, juicy bite.

**Miso might work well in this recipe. I think I'm going to give it a try next time.

February 12, 2010: Whole Wheat Bread with Walnuts

The aroma of bread baking brings an inexplicably primal feeling to my heart that all is right with the world. Perhaps it's because wheat, sometimes called the "staff of life," has been a staple in the human diet for so many generations that it has become imprinted in our DNA. Whatever the reason, my taste buds wake up and look forward to the prospect of having a slice of warm bread with a schmear of butter or a slice of Gruyere.

The beauty of this bread lies in its granular texture that is studded with the sweetness of walnuts. More important, though, is the health benefit of eating a whole grain bread versus breads that are made from highly processed white flour. The recipe comes from Bernard Clayton Jr.'s "The Complete Book of Breads," an oft-consulted tome in my early days of married life when I vowed to only serve home-baked bread. Maybe it's time to renew my vows...

WHOLE WHEAT BREAD WITH WALNUTS

1 package dry yeast
Pinch of raw sugar
1 1/4 cups warm water (105 - 115 degrees F.)
1 cup warm milk
2 T butter, melted
2 T raw sugar
2 t sea salt
6 cups whole wheat flour, approximately
1 cup chopped walnuts

In a large mixing bowl, dissolve the yeast and pinch of sugar in 1/4 cup of the warm water. Proof the yeast to make sure it's still active; it'll take about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining water, milk, butter, sugar, salt, and about 4 cups of flour. Beat in an electric mixer for about 3 minutes, or beat with a wooden spoon for about 150 strokes. Add another cup of flour; beat until it forms a mass. Let rest for 5 minutes. Knead in enough of the remaining flour, either by machine or by hand on a floured surface, until it is light and satiny. Place in a oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, then with a towel, and let rise for 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk. Turn the dough onto a floured surface. Flatten the dough, sprinkle with the walnuts and gently work them into the dough. Divide the dough in half and form into loaves. Place them into 2 oiled 8 1/2 x

4 1/2-inch metal baking pans. Cover with a towel, put in a warm place and let them rise, about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 375 degrees F. When the loaves have doubled in bulk, place them in the middle of your oven and bake for 45 minutes. When done, (the loaves will be browned and their sides pull away from the sides of the pans) remove the bread from the oven and cool on wire racks.

February 11, 2010: Braised Red Cabbage with Apples

One of the foods mentioned in the New York Times article, "The Eleven Best Foods You Aren't Eating" is cabbage. A member of the Cruciferae family, cabbage is rich in nutrients, including chemicals that have detoxifying properties and boost enzymes that fight many forms of cancer. Red cabbage has even higher concentrations of these nutrients than the green varieties.

I looked forward to braising the fine head of red cabbage I purchased at -- where else but -- the farmers' market. The following recipe was published recently in the Wellness section of the New York Times. The remaining ingredients were already in my pantry. I used the balsamic vinegar as listed in the recipe, but I think I would like to try apple cider vinegar next time. I served it as a side dish with grilled chicken, lentil salad, and a baby greens salad; however, I think you could have a satisfying meal by pairing up the braised cabbage with a grain, such as steamed brown rice, lentils or a bulgur salad. Lastly, I found the flavor of this dish to improve the day after cooking.

BRAISED RED CABBAGE WITH APPLES

1 head red cabbage, shredded
2 T olive oil
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 tart apples, peeled, cored and sliced
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar (or try apple cider vinegar)
1/4 t ground allspice
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Cover the shredded cabbage with cold water while you are prepping the other ingredients. Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot. Add the onion and cook until soft. Add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar; continue to cook for about 2 minutes, stirring all the while. Add the apples; continue to cook another 2 minutes. Drain the cabbage and add it to the pot. Stir in the allspice and 2 more tablespoons of vinegar. Cover and cook over low heat for 1 hour, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is soft. Add another tablespoon of vinegar, if desired. Stir in salt and pepper, to taste.

February 10, 2010: Lentil Salad with Walnuts, Oregano and Capers

Next time you're looking for a starch to round out dinner, save the potatoes and think lentils instead. This legume is an all-star fiber packed with numerous health benefits: it lowers cholesterol, aids the digestive system, improves heart health, and is an excellent source of iron and protein. All this and... lentils are naturally low calorie and fat free.

Lentils can be added to soups, used as the foundation for salads or formed into veggie burgers. Tonight, I used lentils to concoct a salad on the fly to serve with slices of grilled chicken, a baby green salad and braised red cabbage. Leftover salad will be in my lunchbox tomorrow along with my customary salad.

LENTIL SALAD WITH WALNUTS, OREGANO AND CAPERS

1 cup lentils
2 cups water
1/2 cup chopped onion (red or yellow or scallions)
1 clove garlic, pressed
1/3 cup chopped parsley
1 or 2 T capers
1/2 t dried oregano
Juice of 1 lemon
A few glugs of olive oil
Applewood smoked sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1/4 cup chopped walnuts, toasted

Put 2 cups of water into a medium-size saucepan, Add the lentils, bring to a boil then lower to a simmer. Simmer the lentils for about 20 minutes. Watch them carefully while cooking because if they are over-cooked, you will get a mush. You want the lentils to retain their shape. When done, drain off the cooking liquid and put the lentils in a medium-size mixing bowl. Add the onion, garlic, parsley, capers and oregano. Fold in a few glugs of olive oil, enough to lightly coat the lentil mixture. Stir in the lemon juice, salt and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Sprinkle the toasted walnuts over the salad before serving.

*Crumbled feta cheese is a marvelous addition to this salad.
*Use chopped fresh mint in place of the oregano for an even fresher palette.
*In lieu of walnuts, add toasted pine nuts, instead.

February 9, 2010: Brownies with Cardamom

One evening, on my way home after work, I visited Tifa, a chocolate cafe down the road from school. This is not an ordinary candy shop such as See's, Fannie Mae's or Godiva. Tifa is seriously devoted to chocolates from all over the world, many with unusual flavor combinations. There are tables and chairs that invite you to linger and savor your purchases. They even have tasting parties available, something I have yet to experience.

Besides chocolate bars and candies, Tifa serves coffees, hot chocolate and drinking chocolate. It was the drinking chocolate that sent me to heaven. You select a particular chocolate (I chose a dark chocolate laced with cardamom), then the barrista stirs the freshly-grated chocolate into hot cream and pours it into a demitasse cup. It's so rich, you need a spoon to consume it. I thought the cardamom married so well with the chocolate that tonight I baked a batch of brownies with the spice and, well, it turned out exquisitely.

BROWNIES WITH CARDAMOM

2 ounces unsweetened chocolate
8 ounces unsalted butter
1 cup organic sugar
2 eggs
3/4 cup unbleached flour
1/2 t ground cardamom

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

Melt the chocolate and butter in a medium-size saucepan. Whisk in the sugar, then the eggs, one at a time, until thoroughly blended. Sift the flour over the chocolate mixture one quarter cup at a time, stirring after each addition until blended. Stir in the cardamom. Turn into a buttered 8-inch square metal baking pan. Bake for 20 t0 25 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out dry and clean. Cool on a wire rack. Cut into 16 squares and store in an air-tight container.

February 8, 2010: Vegan Split Pea Soup

The day my older daughter, who was then a junior in high school, proclaimed she was a vegan, was a day of infamy in our family. It marked the end of the "one-size-fits-all" kitchen. I had always indulged my family by cooking according to their individual tastes, but Claire's vegan adventure was a challenge for me. Ingrid and I still loved our cheese and real eggs, things that were made with cow's milk and butter, but Claire remained stalwart in her new-found way of life. As I chuckle about it now, I have to admit I learned how to cook meals without dependence on animal products. It made me mindful of the ingredients we put into our food and, thus, into our bodies. I surrendered and just went with it.

The following recipe, inspired by the pea soup in the "The Moosewood Daily Special" cookbook, is something I may never have tried had Claire not had her vegan period. (By the way, she fell off the wagon during her college junior year abroad in Sweden. The food her international comrades cooked in the communal kitchen was too enticing to pass up. I think salmon was the first morsel of protein that entered her system.) This soup is surprisingly good... even without a smoked ham hock. The hint of faux smoke is imparted by the dried mushrooms. Miso, fermented soy bean paste, rounds out the flavor bouquet with a nod to healthfulness (It's high in protein, low in saturated fat and contains digestive enzymes. One caution: miso has a high salt content.)

VEGAN SPLIT PEA SOUP

1/2 ounce dried mushrooms (i.e. porcini, chanterelles, shiitake)
2 cups dried split peas
8 cups water
3 bay leaves
1 t dried marjoram
2 cups chopped onions
1 1/2 cups peeled and sliced carrots
1 1/2 cups diced celery
2 cups peeled and diced russet potatoes
1/4 cup light miso
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Chopped parsley

Soak the dried mushrooms in 1 cup boiling water for about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large, heavy soup kettle, combine the split peas, water, bay leaves, marjoram, onions, carrots, celery, and potatoes. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and partially cover the pot. Cook for 30 minutes.

Remove the mushrooms from the soaking liquid when they are soft (don't discard the liquid!), chop them, then stir them into the soup. Strain the soaking liquid into the soup kettle. Cook the soup another 20 minutes, maintaining a low heat. Stir from time to time to prevent sticking. When the soup is thick and creamy, add the miso, then the salt and pepper, to taste. Add a touch more miso, if necessary. Ladle into bowls; sprinkle with chopped parsley.

February 7, 2010: 14 KT Cake

If I had hosted a party to celebrate today's football madness, i.e. the Super Bowl, I might have served this this All-American favorite for dessert: Carrot Cake. Sweet and dense; moist and full of texture, it's perfectly complemented with a sublime cream cheese frosting (that isn't cloying sweet). I found the cake recipe in the Chicago Tribune way back in the seventies. The frosting is from the Dessert Queen herself, Maida Heatter. I'm inspired to experiment using whole wheat flour in lieu of the white flour. Ill put that on my to-do list. I think the nutty texture of the whole wheat might be a good match, as well as making it a healthier indulgence. I'll let you know how it goes.

CARROT CAKE

1 1/2 oil, such as safflower
2 cups sugar
3 eggs
2 t vanilla extract
2 t ground cinnamon
1 13 1/2 ounce can crushed pineapple, well-drained
2 cups shredded carrots
1 7 ounce package flaked coconut
2 cups sifted flour
2 t baking soda
1 t sea salt
1 cup chopped nuts, such as walnuts or pecans (optional)
1 cup raisins (optional)

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

In a large bowl, beat the sugar into the oil. Beat in the eggs, vanilla extract and cinnamon. Stir in the drained pineapple, shredded carrots and coconut, until thoroughly blended. Stir in 1 cup flour, baking soda and salt. Then stir in the rest of the flour. Fold in the optional nuts and raisins. Turn the batter into 2 buttered 9-inch round baking pans. (You may also want to line the bottoms of the pans with waxed paper, then dust the buttered pans with dry bread crumbs before adding the batter.) Bake for 50 to 60 minutes on the middle rake of your oven, or until a toothpick comes out dry and clean. Take the cakes out of oven and let them rest in their pans for about 5 minutes, then invert onto wire racks to finish cooling.

CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
From Maida Heatter's "Book of Great American Desserts"

16 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
4 ounces butter, at room temperature
1 t vanilla extract
2 cups sifted confectioners sugar

With an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter until smooth. On low speed, add the vanilla and confectioners sugar. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. Beat the frosting on high speed until smooth. This will be more than an ample amount to fill and frost a double layer cake.

February 6, 2010: Champion Chili for Super Bowl Sunday

Tomorrow, all across America, football fans are gathering in front of big screens for the ultimate game of the season. This year, they'll be rooting for either the Indiana Colts or the New Orleans Saints. Good luck, teams! And, that's all I know about Super Bowl XLIV. But, what I do know is this: there has been a lot of cooking going on in preparation of the big event. Plus, I'll bet that tomorrow there will be quite a few batches of chili simmering on the stove tops of America.

There are possibly as many versions of chili as there are cooks. Ground meat or stewing beef? Beef or venison? Meat or no meat? Turkey or vegetarian? Beans or no beans? Spicy, medium or mild? And, then there are the condiments! Corn bread or chips? Red onion or scallions? Sour cream or not?

Champion Chili calls for both beef brisket and ground beef and doesn't contain a single bean. I cooked it for the Annual Coldwater Chili Cook-Off, which was a fundraiser for my daughters' school. It was our first year at the school and I was naive enough to allow myself to be volunteered as head chef for the fourth grade entry. Never having even been to a cook-off before, I had absolutely NO idea what was involved. I found out it was not just having a great recipe and cooking it up. How did I know I was supposed to come up with a theme for the booth and was expected to have it decorated? No one told me about that part! My, my, what did the celebrity judges think when they passed by our booth that looked like an empty lot in the midst of such elaborately and cleverly done up real estate? There was no blue ribbon for the fourth grade that day, but my good old Champion Chili came in second as the people's choice. And, it's always comes in number one at my home any Sunday of the year!

CHAMPION CHILI

1 1/2 t cumin seeds, toasted and ground
5 pounds beef brisket, trimmed of fat and cut into 3/4 inch cubes
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
6 cloves garlic, minced
4 medium jalapeno peppers, seeded and minced
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1/2 cup chili powder
3 T dark New Mexico chili powder
1 1/2 t ground coriander
4 cups beef stock
2 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 1/2 t dried oregano
1/2 pound lean ground beef
Chopped cilantro

Heat a large, heavy casserole; working in batches, add the meat, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat until browned on all sides. Transfer each batch to a bowl. Add the garlic, jalapenos and onions to the casserole and cook over moderate heat until softened. Add the chili powders, coriander and half of the ground cumin and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Return the brisket to the casserole. Add the stock, the tomatoes with their juices, and crumble in the oregano. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 3 hours. Stir in the ground beef, check for salt, and cook for about another hour, or until the brisket is tender and the sauce has thickened. Stir in the remaining cumin and cook another 15 minutes. Ladle into bowls and sprinkle with chopped cilantro.

*By toasting the cumin, you add a lovely tonality to the bouquet of flavors.

*Besides chopped cilantro, condiments could include chopped red onion, sliced scallions, sour cream, shredded jack, Mexican Queso Fresco, diced avocado, fresh corn salsa, blue corn chips, corn bread

*The addition of the ground beef in the final hour of cooking is a nice way to give the chili some body.

February 5, 2010: Cauliflower and Potato Soup with Curry Spices

It was another rainy day in Southern California so tonight I pulled out the soup kettle again. I decided to use the cauliflower and ginger I bought at the farmers' market on Sunday. Being fond of the combination of cauliflower and potatoes with curry spices, that was the direction I took.

While the onions were cooking in the oil, I grated the ginger, then pulled out turmeric, cinnamon, cumin, and coriander from the spice shelf and added that all to the kettle. By gently cooking the spices in the oil, you bring out their flavors. Also, by using the freshest spices possible (those that haven't been kept in your pantry for too long), you get optimum flavor and more of the health benefits they provide. For instance, turmeric is known as an anti-inflammatory; ginger is great for the digestive tract; cinnamon is thought to lower cholesterol.

The rest of the ingredients were sent to the kettle to simmer for about 15 to 20 minutes. When the vegetables were tender, I pureed it all in the food processor. The result was a rich, velvety and creaminess complemented by the intensity of the spices... and was very healthy for you, too!

CAULIFLOWER AND POTATO SOUP WITH CURRY SPICES

2 T olive oil
1 1/2 cups chopped onions
1/4 t Thai chili paste
1 T grated ginger
1 t turmeric
1 t ground cumin
1 t ground coriander
1/2 t ground cinnamon
2 cups cubed russet potatoes
4 cups cauliflower florets
4 cups vegetable or chicken stock
1/2 t sea salt
1/4 cup uncooked basmati rice, rinsed
2 T lemon juice
2 t raw sugar
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Fresh chopped cilantro

Heat the oil in a heavy soup kettle. Over low heat, cook the onions until translucent. Add the ginger and the spices and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Be careful not to burn the spices. Add the potatoes, cauliflower, salt, stock to the kettle and bring to a boil. Add the rice, reduce the heat to a simmer and cover the kettle. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Puree the soup in batches in your food processor or blender. Return to the kettle. Stir in the lemon juice and sugar; add salt and pepper to taste. Ladle into bowls, then sprinkle with chopped cilantro. This makes about 4 servings.

February 4, 2010: Tartar Sauce

I know, you've been waiting for the Tartar Sauce that you want to serve with the Crab Cake recipe that was posted a couple of days ago. Your patience is going to be rewarded below. As with most sauces, freshly homemade is superior to anything you buy from the store. Having said that, the base of tartar sauce is mayonnaise and I have to admit I rely on good old Hellman's (or sometimes I'll try out a natural brand from Whole Foods). In a perfect world, I'd prefer to start out with a homemade version; however, I am still practicing the technique to make it from scratch. Sometimes it comes out as a smooth emulsion, but too often my result is a separated mess. So, now that the truth is out, I'll have to get to work on that and let you know when I discover the secret for perfect mayonnaise. For now, I think you'll be pleased with the zestiness and freshness of this recipe... even with Hellman's. It's marvelous served not merely with crab cakes, but try it with deep-fried scallops, poached salmon or in a bay shrimp salad with dill. Mmmm...

TARTAR SAUCE

1 cup mayonnaise, homemade or store-bought
1 t grated lemon rind
2 T lemon juice
1 t Worcestershire sauce (or try Bragg's Amino Acids)
Dash of Tabasco sauce
1/4 cup pickle relish (or chopped cornichons)
1/4 cup chopped parsley
2 T minced shallots
2 T capers, drained
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Gently fold all the ingredients together in a mixing bowl. Refrigerate for about an hour before serving to allow the flavors to develop.

February 3, 2010: Sun Butter Cookies with Chocolate Chunks

I usually bake cookies on Wednesday for Pizza Day at our school. I have wanted to bake my Peanut Butter Cookies, but our school district is a "peanut-free zone." With greater awareness and sensitivity to student's allergies, today there are more restrictions at schools than ever. But, the moms at school are savvy; they serve sun butter, a sunflower seed product, in place of peanut butter. In fact, last week they were making a batch of sun butter and jelly sandwiches to serve at our Winter Faire. I took a taste and was pleasantly surprised; the texture and flavor are almost the real deal.

So, this morning I experimented by substituting sun butter for peanut butter in my cookie recipe. I made the dough at home; it turned out somewhat wetter than the original, but I decided to leave it as is rather than add flour. Mid-morning, I baked the cookies in the staff lounge where we actually have a stove installed! The aroma wafted throughout the office, then out the front door to announce the promise of cookies after school today. I am happy to report the substitution worked. Although the texture was slightly less dense and the baked cookie was a bit moister using the sun butter, they were hands-down delicious!

SUN BUTTER COOKIES WITH CHOCOLATE CHUNKS

8 ounces milk and dark chocolate, chopped
4 ounces butter
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 egg
1/2 cup sun butter
1/2 t vanilla extract
1 cup flour
3/4 t baking soda
1/4 t sea salt

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F.

In the bowl of your electric mixer, cream the butter with the sugars until soft and smooth. Beat in the egg, scraping with a rubber spatula. Beat in the sun butter and vanilla extract. Stir in 1/2 cup of the flour with the baking soda and salt. Then, stir in the remaining flour until incorporated. Stir in the chocolate chunks.

Line your cookie sheets with parchment paper. Place the dough by teaspoonfuls onto the lined cookie sheets, about 1 inch apart. (I don't like crowding my dough; I'd rather take the extra time it takes to bake fewer cookies per sheet.) Then with lightly wet hands, roll each mound into a ball. With a fork, lightly press the dough by making a cross-hatch design on each flattened cookie. Bake two sheets at a time. After 8 minutes, change the positions of the sheets, from top to bottom and from back to front. Bake another 7 minutes. Total baking time is minutes. Carefully remove the baked cookies to a rack to cool.

*You can always use peanut butter to make the original recipe. It makes a lighter and dryer cookie. I don't know which one I like better!

February 2, 2010: Crab Cakes

Crab cakes were once a treat found at seaside restaurants. Now, you find them on menus from coast to coast and everywhere in between. More often than not, crab cakes are offered in miniature, as a starter. I prefer to serve (and eat!) them as the main attraction. I started making crab cakes during my tenure as chef of an executive dining room... always to rave reviews. Because they tip the scale toward richness, but I might work on creating a leaner version. If it's worth sharing, you'll see it posted here. In the meanwhile, an occasional indulgence, now and then, simply makes life a little sweeter.

CRAB CAKES

1 pound fresh or canned crab meat (if canned, thoroughly drain the liquid)
1/2 cup minced red onion
1/2 cup minced red bell pepper
1/2 cup minced celery
1 cup mayonnaise
1/2 t dry mustard
One or two dashes of Tabasco
1 T chopped fresh dill weed
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 egg, beaten
1/4 cup cracker crumbs
1 cup cornmeal
2 T olive oil
2 T unsalted butter

In a medium mixing bowl, gently fold together the crab meat, vegetables, mayonnaise, mustard, dill weed, salt, pepper, egg, and cracker crumbs. Form into eight patties, then place on a plate lined with waxed paper and chill for about a half hour but no more than a few hours. Coat the chilled cakes with cornmeal. Melt 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet. Saute the crab cakes until golden brown on each side, about three minutes per side, adding more oil or butter as needed. Serve the cakes immediately.

*Crab cakes are meant to be served with a sauce. Tartar Sauce is the traditional choice, however other suggestions include Remoulade, Wasabi Mayonnaise, Lime Watercress Sauce, Green Goddess, and Scandinavian Dill Mustard. Look for some of these recipes later in the week.

February 1, 2010: Roast Chicken

Once again, I begin a post with a food memory born in my mother's kitchen. Often, my mother would roast a hen or capon for Sunday dinner. The meat was succulent and tender; the skin was a crispy, peppery and garlic-laced prize to fight over. Mommy served it with her no-fail perfect gravy and fluffy mashed potatoes. Usually, fresh string beans and cranberry relish would round out the meal. In spite of being a example of humble, plain, home-cooking, my mother's roast chicken could almost be elevated to the ranks of haute cuisine; this is owing to one crucial ingredient: The loving attention she put into everything she cooked or baked.

I don't have my mother's version of roast chicken. However, I love the method Mark Bittman shares in his book, "How to Cook Everything." (This tome is like the new "Joy of Cooking.") The outside is crisp, the inside moist and tender. The simple flavorings offered in this recipe are delicious, but don't be afraid to experiment.

ROAST CHICKEN
From Mark Bittman's "How to Cook Everything"

1 3 to 4 pound chicken
3 T olive oil
2 t chopped fresh herbs, such as thyme, rosemary, marjoram, oregano, or sage
1 or 2 cloves peeled fresh garlic, pressed through a garlic press
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Chopped fresh herbs for garnish

Preheat your oven to 500 degrees F.

Wash and pat-dry your chicken. Cut away the excess fat. Place breast-side-down on a rack in your roasting pan. Mix the olive oil with the herbs, garlic, sea salt, and pepper. Place the chicken in the hot oven and roast for 20 minutes. Baste the bird with the olive oil mixture, turn the bird breast-side-up, baste olive oil mixture over the breast-side, and return to the oven. Roast for 7 or 8 minutes; baste again. The breast should be beginning to brown; if not, roast at 500 degrees F. a few more minutes. Then, turn the heat down to 325 degrees F., baste again, and roast until an internal meat thermometer inserted into the thigh 160 to 165 degrees F. Total roasting time will be just under 1 hour. (If juices are still red, roast about another 5 minutes.)

Remove the bird to a platter and let it rest 5 minutes before carving. You can use the fat and pan juices to make a gravy or degrease the pan juices and pass separately with the chicken.